sawada – Re:Discover Pakistan

14.03.2025 update

Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

The ceremony to welcome the god Balimain of Kalash had finally begun. The following is a report on the women’s purification day known as “Shishao Adu.”

The day before Shishao Adu is a day for preparing the stone slab with which the Shishao, the bread for the women’s purification ceremony, will be made. The men go into the mountains to look for suitable stone slabs and leave them in a safe place, so that the women don’t touch them until they are ready to use. Meanwhile, the women prepare the flour used to make Shishao.

A man carrying the stone slab to be used in the making of Shishao.

On the morning of Shishao Adu, women gather on the riverbank to prepare for the purification. They bathe in the hut and wash their hair. After this, they cannot bathe until the sacred period is over.

Shishao Adu is a day of purification for women. After this day, no newcomers are allowed to enter the Rumbur Valley. No exception is made for foreigners, nor for Muslims living in the valley—they are likewise not allowed to enter the village of Kalash. The female Kalash relatives who come from Bumburet to celebrate the children’s rite of passage known as “Goshnik” must also undergo this purification. We foreigners were also purified. When I walked around the village, people asked me if I had showered, and if I was wearing new clothes. They believe that if anyone who does not follow the regulations of the Kalash religion is in the valley, it will bring them misfortune.

Shishao making begins at the Temple.

A man kneads purified dough to be used for the making of Shishao. The men’s hands are purified, and they are not allowed to touch anything other than the ingredients for Shishao—including themselves.

Using stone slabs and stones from the mountains, the men crush the walnuts which will act as filling for the bread.

Men are required to bake five Shishao for each female member of the family, and in families with many female members, baking Shishao can start even in the early morning.

The women’s purification ritual, Shishao Suchek, had begun. The women prepared new clothes, and some of the girls were dressed up almost as much as they are during the spring Joshi festival.

First, one must purify their hands with water.

Five pieces of “Shishao” (walnut bread) are handed out.

The women are purified with smoke from a flaming juniper branch.

A woman with a very innovative headdress. She said her mother made it for her.

A traditional-style headdress known as a Kupas. Its colors are very modern. The traditional materials and colors that are typically shown in books are nowhere to be seen these days. It seems that Kalash women are always chasing the latest fashions.

The Shishao Suchek ritual at Temple Jestak Han had finally begun. Notably, it can also take place outside, in the open air.

Female members of the family gathering at the temple.

The female purification ritual, Shishao Suchek.

After this purification, the woman must remain pure for seven days. This involves a serious of strict rules, such as not touching Muslims, not eating chicken, eggs, cow’s milk & dairy products, honey, and so on.

Getting the opportunity to see these people live their lives and practice their faith was truly a beautiful sight.

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

＊Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊The Joshi Spring Festival: A Kalash Ritual

＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

＊Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

27.02.2025 update

Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

It is early December in the Kalash Valley. The harvests have all been completed and the livestock have come down from the mountains. The ceremony to welcome the God Balimain of Kalash has begun. It includes rites of passage, purification, and sacrifice—all culminating in a farewell to Balimain, complete with torches and a large bonfire. The following is a report on a trip that brought me into contact with the rituals of a deep faith that continues to thrive in the modern age.

During the sacred period of Chawmos, Muslims are not allowed to enter the valley. Since neither staff nor drivers from Islamabad could enter the valley, Kalash staff came to Ayun to pick me up.

In the village of Kalash, a lot of laundry was hung out to dry to ensure people can wear new clothes during the sacred period. Before the purification ritual, one must take a bath and put on new clothes.

I made it just in time to be able to observe the Sharabirayak ritual in the Bumburet Valley. The word “Shara” means markhor and the word “Bira” means male goat. After the women bake walnut bread with cheese to be distributed the next day, the men knead dough, which they shape in the form of either markhor or male goats. These statues are then baked in a fireplace. This ritual is called Kutram.

Sharabira making takes place at night. When I visited, there was no electricity in the valley, and I was able to glimpse the beautiful sight of a woman baking walnut bread by the light of a stove fire.

Afterward, the purified man kneads purified dough and begins to sculpt animal shapes.

He proceeded to bake them on the stove.

The ritual of Kutram is performed in each household as well as in the temple of the goddess Jestak. The wheat collected from each family is used to make a Shara (markhor) at the Jestak Han temple. At night, the men gather to make Sharabira and spend the night painting on the walls and drinking until early in the morning. At around 4:00 a.m., they make a “tchich tchich” sound—intended to resemble the call made when chasing goats—urging the Sharabira to go to a place called “Dezelawat.” The people of Kalash believe that the souls of the Sharabira go to Dezelawat, which is located near the Afghan border.

A drawing of Sharabira on the wall of the Jestak Han temple. Three Shara (markhor) are placed by the altar.

The drawings on the walls of the temple are painted with charcoal made from burning walnut bark prepared by the women.

For those unfamiliar with the markhor, it is the national animal of Pakistan and is known to be extremely valuable for trophy hunting. In the 2024-25 winter hunting season, permission to hunt three Kashmir markhor was given, and each was auctioned off for between $231,000 and $271,000. It is said that 80% of the income from trophy hunting is returned to the local community, and in order to increase the number of trophies, conservation is carried out. Though this initiative has led to the number of markhor increasing, as someone who loves animals, I feel rather conflicted about this.

Kashimir markhor (Toshi Shasha game reserve)

The markhor is a highly sacred animal to the people of Kalash. They can be seen in Chitral Gol National Park and nearby game reserves. Males with large horns are usually found at higher elevations in the mountains, but during the winter breeding season they come down to lower elevations, making it possible to observe them. The variant in this region is a subspecies, and is known as the Kashmir markhor.

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley, Toshi Shasha – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

＊The Joshi Spring Festival: A Kalash Ritual

＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

＊Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Kalash Valley > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Tag : Kalasha , Bumburet Village , Khyber Pakhtunkhwa , Pakistan Travels , Pakistan Blog , Pakistan Travel company , Pakistan Travel Blog , Pakistan tour operator , Rumbur , Pakistan Photography Tour , Bumburet , Ayun , Indus Caravan , Bumburet valley , Chitral , Rumbur valley , Kafiristan , PakistanBlog , Chawmos , Kalash , Kalasha Valleys , Chaumos , Kalash valley , Bomboret village , Chawmos festival

02.02.2025 update

Deosai National Park Wildlife Camp in Autumn – In Search of the Himalayan Brown Bear

In autumn, we went to Deosai National Park in search of Himalayan brown bears before they hibernate. This is a report on the wildlife of the plateau as autumn deepens.

We entered Deosai National Park from the Chilum Check Post on the Astor side. At the entrance, there was a very beautiful photo of a Himalayan brown bear in summer.

At Chilum Check post at the entrance to the national park

From the entrance to the National Park in Chilam, we gained more and more altitude as we headed toward the plateau. On the way, we observed birds. We were able to spot only a few birds on the plateau this time—we found many more on the way up from Chilam to Sheosar Lake.

A juvenile fore-fronted serin. Often seen on the road from the Astor Valley to the Deosai Plateau

A robin accentor. It can be seen from the Astor Valley to Deosai, where it migrates to an altitude of around 2,000m in winter.

As we approached Sheosar Lake with Nanga Parbat in sight, we saw an animal that looked like a dog ahead of us. “Do dogs come here?” I asked to the staff. “No, I don’t think so—it’s too far from the houses,” he replied. We searched for a while but could not find the animal. Thinking we had simply misidentified it, we went to the shore of Sheosar Lake instead. There, we happened to come across the animal in question—it had been a wolf. In the Deosai Plateau, Tibetan wolves are more difficult to run into than even brown bears!

A Tibetan wolf: A medium-sized wolf and subspecies of the grey wolf. It is found in Tibet and the Himalayan region.

This wolf did not appear to be a pack member, but rather a lone wolf. We had two subsequent opportunities to observe Tibetan wolves at a distance during our stay on the Deosai Plateau, but both times they were alone. The national park staff also found it unusual to see wolves three times during our five-day stay, and speculated that the wolves might have been actively hunting for marmots before the rodents entered hibernation.

Once on the Deosai Plateau, we passed through Sheosar Lake and Kala Pani to the campsite at Bara Pani.

Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the world’s 9th highest peak, seen from Sheosar Lake (4,200m)

There are many tourists in the vicinity of Sheosar Lake, and the long-tailed marmots show up expecting to be fed. Some of them are quite accustomed to people—no doubt the national park authority should be stricter about tourists feeding the wild animals.

Our camp in Bara Pani. This is a private camp established in the ranger staff facility area. The Indus Caravan camping team, active in the mountains during the summer, has set up a tent, a dining tent, and a toilet tent. We camped out in the wilderness, with a river flowing right in front of our tents.

A winter migratory Pallas gull that was always in the river in front of our tents

Every morning, a pair of common mergansers could be seen in the river. These are also winter migratory birds.

Walking on the Deosai Plateau. The snow-capped mountain in the distance is Nanga Parbat (8,126m).

We spotted a male Himalayan brown bear. We photographed him from a distance so he wouldn’t notice us. The wind direction was not in our favor, so we were only able to observe it from a distance. We then tried to get closer to the mother and cubs who were behind this bear.

What an adorable sight: a Himalayan brown bear and her cub

Walking on the plateau is difficult. The uneven terrain and wetlands in this area make traversal tricky—one has to be very careful.

The Himalayan brown bear is a subspecies of brown bear that inhabits the northern mountainous regions of India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. In the last census (2022), the presence of 77 of these animals was confirmed in the national park. Three animals were fitted with transmitters in the autumn of 2023, and their previously unknown hibernation sites were at last discovered. Two of the three had descended into the Astor Valley to hibernate, and one was hibernating near Bara Pani on the Deosai Plateau.

The wind was on our side, and the brown bears began to come closer to us. They seemed to know that something was out there and watched us with interest.

An adorable-looking Himalayan brown bear

We had lunch on the plateau with our observation team. When I served onigiri (rice balls), one of the staff members said, “This is Japan’s anime food!” It turned out that our animal-loving staff also loved Japanese anime.

As an additional note, Himalayan brown bears can be very timid and can only be observed from a distance. The small black dot in the center of the photo below is a Himalayan brown bear. At night, however, they become bolder—and even approached our camp.

The small dot in the center is a Himalayan brown bear

A Himalayan brown bear came to the campsite at night.

A Himalayan brown bear appeared at our camp. When no one is around, they approach camps looking for food. This one didn’t run away immediately when we shone a light on it. Though they are rather timid during the day, at night they are very imposing…. I wonder if they think we can’t see them in the dark… Himalayan brown bears came on all four nights we spent there. Moreover, it was a different bear each day. There is an urgent need to control food and garbage at national park campsites to prevent accidents.

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Sep 2024, Deosai National Park-Gilgit Baltistan

Visit our web site “Wildlife of Pakistan”

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your ” Wildlife observation ” in Pakistan.

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Deosai National Park
Tag : Deosai National Park , Pakistan Travel company , Deosai Plateau , Pakistan tour operator , Gilgit-Baltistan , Pakistan Photography Tour , Himalayan Brown Bear , Wildlife photography tour Pakistan , Pakistan Blog , Brown Bear , Pakistan Travel Blog , Save wildlife in Pakistan , Wildlife of Pakistan , Indus Caravan , Bear watching

25.12.2024 update

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 2

The following is the continuation of a photo report of Teppei Kamitani’s 2024 season excursion to the Baltoro Glacier—titled “Over the Baltoro Glacier to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C.” Many spectacular drone aerial photographs are included within.

The second part of the blog traces and documents (with photos) the trek to Concordia in the following order: [Urdukas → Goro Ⅱ → Concordia → Broad Peak B.C. → K2 B.C.→ Concordia].

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 1

Day 7: Urdukas to Goro Ⅱ

We left Urdukas at 7:00 a.m. and were up on the Baltoro Glacier within 30 minutes. Today’s route was a continuous up-and-down walk along the moraine of the Baltoro Glacier.
It was a clear day, so even though we were on a glacier, the sunlight made us feel warmer than the real temperature let on. We proceeded deeper into the moraine, wearing light clothing.

The mountain rising high in the front is Gasherbrum IV Peak (7925m)

Gasherbrum Mountains seen behind the glacial lake

Masherbrum (7821m), the 22nd highest peak in the world, designated as K1 according to surveying notation

At 11:45 we arrived at our lunch stop, Goro I (4,100m), where we had ourselves a lavish lunch at a table in the middle of the glacier. On the outward trek, we did not stay here but continued instead on to Goro II.

Arrival at Goro I (4100m). We enjoyed lunch at a table in the middle of a glacier with a luxurious view.

Baltoro Glacier is approximately 100 meters thick, equivalent to 25 floors of a building!

After another 2.5 hours, we arrived at Goro II (4,380m), also a camp on the glacier, at 15:00. After Goro II, we slept on the ice, as the temperature continued to drop in both the morning and evening. It was cloudy on the outward trek, but on the way back to Goro I, we had an excellent view of the Gasherbrum mountains. The -6℃ temperature in the morning, however, was less than excellent. My hands were freezing cold.

At Goro II Camp, treated to a good view of Masherbrum. A glimpse into the tour kitchen and dining room

Day 8 & 9: GoroⅡ to Concordia

Waking up in the morning at the camp on the glacier, the cold air—which now felt stronger than before—imbued us with a sense of determination. Under slightly overcast skies, we departed for our destination, Concordia. Continuing from the previous day, it was just up and down on the glacier moraine. Thankfully, however, the path was quite gentle and flat in many parts, making for an easy walk.

With the morning sun shining through the clouds, we walked through the icy world to reach Concordia

In the afternoon, cold rain began to fall, which was hard on our tired bodies at the end of the day. We continued further into the depths of the mountain to a campsite where we could see K2 in front of us. Finally, we arrived at the Concordia camp, the turnaround point.
Unfortunately, K2 was still obscured by clouds when we arrived and did not grace us with its presence, but we still held on to hope. We stayed at the Concordia Camp for two days, which served also as time to rest.

When we arrived at Concordia, the snow cover had turned the surroundings into a world of silvery white!

Day 10 Concordia to Broad Peak B.C.

In the morning, we woke up to steady snowfall. Visibility was almost zero, making it difficult for the porters and horses to move forward, so we had to temporarily postpone our departure and wait until 9:00 a.m. The sun came out before 9:00 a.m., and a blue sky quickly revealed itself before us. It was time to set out!

Early in the morning it was snowing, with zero visibility, but it cleared up around 9:00 a.m.

Now it was time to depart for Broad Peak B.C.!

The ordinary moraine was covered with snow, making it look almost fantastical

We changed to chain spikes/light crampons after 10 minutes of walking and passed through a serac zone. The route seemed to have changed a bit, and the serac was very gentle—traversable even without spikes. After the ups and downs of the large moraine, we simply walked along the side moraine of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, arriving at Broad Peak B.C. at about 14:00.

Broad Peak B.C. in the middle of Godwin-Austen Glacier

Broad Peak seen from the BC is divided into three peaks. From the back left: Broad Peak North Peak, Broad Peak Central Peak, and Broad Peak Main Peak (8,051m)

K2 (8,611m) at sunrise is a breathtaking sight

Day 11 Broad Peak B.C. to K2B.C and Back

Finally, we set out for K2 B.C. This was a day round trip from Broad Peak B.C. We started at 7:00 a.m. and had a very pleasant 2 ½ hour flat walk up an icy area next to a moraine. Then we trekked up and down the messy moraine to our first destination, K2 Memorial. The K2 Memorial is built on a very steep rock slope, so it was tough to climb up, but we visited and said a prayer for the climbers who lost their lives in the mountains of the Baltoro Glacier, including K2. After descending to the bottom of the rock tower, we had a quick lunch of onigiri (rice balls) and then continued further along the gentle moraine, eventually arriving at K2 Base Camp at 11:30!

Memorial to the many climbers who lost their lives in the mountains of the Baltoro Glacier

We reached K2 B.C. (5,150m). Our guide found the fallen K2 BASE CAMP sign in the moraine and took a commemorative photo

Day 12: Broad Peak B.C to Concordia

At Broad Peak B.C., where we stayed for two nights, K2 came into view around 5:35 a.m., glowing in the morning sun, giving the members a chance to gaze at the world’s second highest peak. After breakfast, we headed back to Concordia.

K2 shining in the morning glow seen from Broad Peak B.C.

A view of the base camp. Members gazed at the world’s second highest peak

As on the outward trek, we walked for 3 hours on gentle moraines, passing army camps. After 1 hour of walking along the moraine & serac belt, we arrived at Concordia. At Concordia, the staff had set up camp in the exact same spot as our previous stay and had prepared a welcome drink and lunch for us. I have nothing but gratitude for them and their consistently prompt work.

Passing through the serac belt again, we return to Concordia

Our camp visible at the foot of Mitre Peak, behind the serac belt

At night, the moonlight illuminated the mountains, creating a beautiful scene

We then said goodbye to K2 from Concordia and retraced our outward route for another 5 days, ending our long trek in Askole. The entire trip took 17 days. At the finish line, the staff congratulated us and toasted us with drinks, in the form of Coke. Some of our members commented that they had never enjoyed a Coke so much in their lives. It must have been because of the overwhelming accomplishment they felt after walking all the way back. Thank you very much, everyone!

Today was the day we said goodbye to K2. We were about to go back the way we came

Photo & text : Teppei Kamitani

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024 Baltoro Galcier- K2BC

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K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 3) Khoburtse to Urdukas

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 4) Urdukas to GoreⅡ

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Staying in Concordia, surrounded by the high Peaks of the Karakorum: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Mountain Range

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your Baltoro Glacier K2BC trek.

*Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan
Tag : Baltoro , Urdukas , K2 , Gasherbrum , Indus Caravan , k2bc , Blaltoro glacier , Saiyu Travel , Goro 1 , Goro 2 , Concordia , Godwin Austen Glacier , Broad peak , Mitre

28.11.2024 update

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 1

The following is a photo report on a 2024 season excursion to the Baltoro Glacier—titled “Over the Baltoro Glacier to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C.“—carried out by Teppei Kamitani, a guide from Japan who has visited and photographed the glacier many times.

The first part of the blog traces and documents (with photos) the first half of the trek in the following order: [Askole → Jhora → Skam Tsok → Paiju → Khoburtse → Urdukas].

My first step was to take a domestic flight from Islamabad to the town of Skardu, the gateway for trekkers in the area. Weather permitting, it’s possible to get a spectacular view of many mountains—including Nanga Parbat—during the flight, but this time it was cloudy and we could not see it. However, had the flight been cancelled, it would have taken two days to travel there on land, so we considered ourselves lucky that we were able to arrive safely.

The day after arrival at Skardu was also a backup day in case of flight cancellations, as well as for obtaining permits and other bureaucratic formalities. During this time, it was possible to head out to the Deosai Plateau to acclimatize oneself to the altitude of 4,200 m.

The following day, we headed to Askole, the starting point of the trek. The route took us through the Shigar Valley, passing the Sarfaranga Cold Desert and viewpoints overlooking the valley. The road became steeper and steeper as we approached Ascole, with more ups and downs along the riverside slopes.

Day 1: Askole-Korophong-Jhola

At long last, the trek began from the lush green village of Askole. On the way, we completed the various formalities at the office in Testay Village, the last inhabited settlement in this vicinity. Beyond this point, a vast, uninhabited path stretched out before us.

Starts in the lush green village of Askole

About four and a half hours after leaving Askole, we had lunch at Korophong, a camp in the end moraine of the Biafo Glacier, which flows from the Latok Mountains. We continued walking along the Braldu River and Jhola Camp came into view on the other side of the Domordo River. Here we crossed the recently opened Snow Leopard Bridge to reach the new Jola Camp.

Lunch at Korophong inside the Biafo Glacier

New Jhora Camp, located along the riverbank

Day 2: Jhola to Skam Tsok

The trail follows the Braldu River with gentle ups and downs, the second half of the day walking along the cliffs. When Skam Tsok comes into view in the distance, we saw Broad Peak (8,051m), the 12th highest peak in the world.

Broad Peak(8,051m) can be seen in the distance

We arrived in Skam Tsok at 11:20, taking about four and a half hours. After lunch, we relaxed with a tea break to keep our spirits up.

Skam Tsok camp and the big rainbow in the sky

Day 3: Skam Tsok to Paiju

This was the day of the half-day walk to Paiju, the camp in front of the glacier. Two and a half hours after we’d passed the gentle ups and downs from Skam Tsok, the Baltoro Glacier began to come into view. The iconic mountains of the Baltoro Glacier, such as Trango Castle and Cathedral, were also visible.

We continued up and down the river bank path

The Baltoro Glacier finally came into view

The second half of the route followed a traverse path to reach Paiju Camp (3,450m), which was covered with poplar trees. The clean mountain water jabbered around us, and even gave us the opportunity to wash our clothes. We put chairs in front of our tent and had ourselves a relaxing afternoon. We were refreshed for the trek up the Baltoro Glacier…

Before Paiju, the trail enters the cliff path again, with more ups and downs

The campsite at Paiju was delightfully well-shaded. Once up on the glacier, there would be no shade at all

Day 4: Paiju to Khoburtse

At long last, this was the day we’d walk to the Baltoro Glacier—though it would end up being a long one. We walked to the Baltoro Glacier and reached the glacier tongue in ninety minutes.

Finally, the edge of the Baltoro Glacier tongue

There was a bit of sunshine at first, but clouds started to gather from the lower part of the Pailu and it began to rain. We followed the glacier’s outlet, gradually making our way up the mountainside, and had lunch at Liligo. From here, wearing helmets, we crossed a slope where there was a risk of landslides. What awaited us at the end, on the opposite bank of the glacier river, was the camp of Khoburtse (3,940m)!

Thanks to this small wooden bridge, we didn’t have to wade across the river. We crossed the bridge on our way to the Khoburtse campsite

The North Star, Trango Castle, Biale, and the Cathedral …. night photography at Khoburtse Camp site

Days 5 & 6: Khoburtse to Urdukas

We spent four hours trekking to Urdukas (4,050m). The plan for today was not to enter the Baltoro Glacier, but to cross two unnamed glaciers on its tributaries. As we made our way up the gently sloping upper reaches of the glacier, there was a point where we could see Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, III and IV, but this time they were obscured by clouds.

Morning in Khoburtse. The rocky peak in the foreground is Trango Castle (5753m)

We didn’t enter the Bartolo Glacier, but traversed the side slopes. There was a lot of up and down

Urdukas means “broken boulder,” so it was fitting that there were actually boulders scattered around the campsite. The Baltoro Glacier lay directly in front, and beyond that, the Trango mountain range, the Cathedral, the Biale Glacier flowing down from Biale, and other famous peaks and glaciers could be seen in a panoramic view.

Urdukas camp site where we stay for two nights, is a high vantage point overlooking the Baltoro Glacier.

The Baltoro Glacier and rock peaks as seen from the rock terrace of Urdus camp

The Baltoro Glacier and the famous mountain range in the direction we are heading to

This trip would not have been possible without the support of the local staff.
We stayed at the Urdukas camp, which had running water, for two nights, including a rest day. I think this break probably really helped our guides refresh mentally as well. The local staff who supported the trip also took a break and sang along, following Ali’s lead.

To be continued in the second half…

Photo & text : Teppei Kamitani

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024 Baltoro Galcier- K2B.C.

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K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 3) Khoburtse to Urdukas

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 4) Urdukas to GoreⅡ

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 5) GoreⅡ to Concordia

Staying in Concordia, surrounded by the high Peaks of the Karakorum: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Mountain Range

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your Baltoro Glacier K2BC trek.

*Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan
Tag : Pakistan tour operator , Concoridia 360degree , Pakistan Photography Tour , 360degree , K2 , Baltoro Glacier , Pakistan Blog , Baltoro Trekking , Pakistan Travel Blog , Concordia , Travel Pakistan Blog , Broad peak , Indus Caravan , Saiyu Travel Pakistan , K2 & Baltoro Trek , Gasherbrum , Pakistan Travel company , Mustagh Tower

09.11.2024 update

Shimshal Pamir & Summiting Minglik Sar (6,050m), Part 2

ミングリク・サール山頂付近から望むヒスパー・ムスターグ山脈 — Hispár Mústag mountain range seen from near the summit of Minglik Sár.

The following is a documentation of the second part of our Shimshal Pamir mountain journey in Aug-Sep 2024, tracing the route from the ascent of Minglik Sar (6,050m) to the return to Shimshal village.

Click here for Part 1.

Day 7: Summit of Minglik Sar (6,050m)

At midnight, the first and second parties left Minglik Sar B.C. The temperature outside was -7°C. We continued walking, using walkie-talkies to communicate with each other. We moved on, checking our footholds with headlamps. Step by step, we climbed up the steep gullies.

We arrived at the top of the ridge (about 5,320m). The first and second parties met, and the second party passed ahead. Soon after the sun came up and the landscape changed. After a rocky ridge, we arrived at a direct climbing spot on a snowy surface.

ガレ場の急登稜線を越えると、まもなく雪面へ — After crossing a steep ridge in a gully, we soon reached the snow surface.

Here we put on crampons and roped up in preparation for our push to the summit. The leading guide kick-stepped ahead and left tracks for those following behind. With the stunning mountain range in the background, we aimed for the summit step by step. K2 was now visible on our right!

After crossing a total of three crevasses, we finally reached the summit. The second team was there waiting for the first to arrive!

一歩一歩着実に頂上を目指す — Reaching the summit steadily, step by step.

果てしなく感じた頂上への登り　前方に先行したセカンド隊 — The seemingly endless climb to the summit. Second party ahead of us.

山頂付近より　ヒスパー・ムスターグ山脈の素晴らしい展望 — From near the summit-top, wonderfull view of the Hisper-Mustagh mountain

遂に、ミングリク･サール(6,050m)登頂！！！ — Summit of Mingrik Sar (6,050m)!

絶景を噛みしめます — Surrounded by spectacular scenery

As we continued, the hard, compacted snow had softened and made for an easier descent, but we couldn’t afford to let our guard down. We descended step by step. We could see B.C. below us, but it seemed far away.

After a nerve-wracking descent, complete with stumbling climbers and falling rocks, the last member returned to B.C. just as the sun was getting ready to set… It was a long haul, but everyone’s hard work paid off!

Day 8: B.C. (4,730m) to Arbob Paryen (3,900m)

The next morning, I woke up to the sound of yak calls. Continuing from the previous day, we started our descent under a clear blue sky. We retraced the same route as the upward journey.

ミングリク･サールB.C.の朝 — Morning at Minglik Sar B.C

アルバ・プリエン(3,900m)を目指す — Walking towards Arbob Paryen(3,900m)

On the way down to Shuw Jerab, we saw the west face of Shispare (7,611m) on our left.

シスパーレ(7,611m)西壁 — The west face of Shispare (7,611m)

We took a break at Chikor. The team also took some time to relax.

We safely passed through a zone of falling rocks and arrived at a campsite with reddish soil in the evening. We had entered an area below 4,000m in altitude, and the air suddenly felt thick and warm.

Day 9: Arbob Paryen (3,900m) to Past Furzin (3,550m)

Today’s agenda was to climb up from the campsite in the hollow valley terrain and head towards the core area. There were dangerous parts on the descent that were more difficult than the ascent, so there was always a sense of tension in the air.

パスト・フルズィン(3,550m)へ — To Past Fruzin(3,550m)

From Paryen Sar (3,850m) to Paryen Ben, and from there to the suspension bridge before Wuch Fruzin, we steadily descended with man-to-man support. As the lower part of the route came into view the route grew tougher both physically and mentally, but we all made it through safely.

緊張感のある下りが続く — The tension-filled descent continued

After that, we continued on the narrow cliff path to Past Furzin (3,550m).

パスト・フルズィン(3,550m)のキャンプ地 — The camp at Pat Furzin(3,550m)

Day 10: Past Furzin (3,550m) to Shimshal Village (3,100m)

After the summit day, the weather improved and we had a clear day for our final march. We patiently continued along the cliff path, and finally the view ahead of us began to open up. We arrived at our first day’s campsite, Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m). From here, we walked to the river at our own pace.

トレッキング最終日。シムシャール村(3,100m)へ！ — The last day of trekking. Heading for Shimshal Village (3,100m)

初日のキャンプ地ガーレ・サールに到着 — Arrival at Ghar-e-Sar, the camp site on the first day

And at last, we could see the village of Shimshal! After the cliff path, we went down to the riverbed. After having our final lunch at the hut, we walked along the flat path towards the village.

川のむこうはシムシャール村！ — The other side of the river is the village of Shimshal

Our Shimshal Pamir mountain trip seemed long but passed quickly. We arrived at the village, reluctant to leave the steep approach and the cold of the high-altitude camp. We were given hot water in a large bucket and were able to refresh both our body and mind.

コーラで乾杯の準備 — Get ready to toast with Coke!

The guides and porters who had looked after us visited us for dinner and we had a farewell party.

The ten-day trek seemed long, but it passed in an instant. It was not an easy mountain climb, but the view from the summit was exceptional, and the sense of achievement after all the hard work was great, making it a special experience that could never be had anywhere else, on any other route.

Photo & Text : Osamu KUSUNOKI

Visit : August 2024, Shimshal Pamir, Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan

▼Related article

Shimshal Pamir: Will you try the Kuch? I did!

Where is Shimshal Pamir?

”Kuch”, a summer in Shimshal Pamir

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan > - Shimshal
Tag : Shuw Jerab , Yazghil Glacier , Shuwerth , Karakorum Trekking , Kuch , Minglik Sar , Shimshal , Ghar-e-sar , Shimshal Pamir , Peryen Sar , Shimshal Pamir Trekking , Past fruzin , Shimshal Village , Wuch fruzin , Yak

25.10.2024 update

Shimshal Pamir & Summiting Minglik Sar (6,050m), Part 1

シュイズへラブで放牧されるヤクたち — Yaks grazing at Shuw Jerab

The following is a report on a journey to the 6,000m peak of Shimshal Pamir from late August to September 2024. Shimshal Pamir is known as “Karakoram’s no man’s land,” and is rarely visited by trekkers. I personally first visited in the summer of 2011, and since then I have returned to this place every year.

The area is a harsh wilderness where the Wakhi people graze their goats, sheep and yaks by moving from one pasture to another. In the past, they also made dairy products on the move, but this is no longer practiced. On the Shimshal Pamir expedition, you can get a glimpse into the summer pastoral life of the Wakhi people. In fact, just starting from Shimshal village and visiting this summer pasture is a strenuous trek, but the climb to the 6,000m peak that awaits beyond is a very satisfying route which provides a tremendous feeling of achievement.

>”Kuch”, a summer in Shimshal Pamir

Day 1: Shimshal Village (3,100m) to Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m)

The first day started in Shimshal village, as we headed towards the Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m). We crossed a small suspension bridge (Michael Bridge) and walked straight along the Shimshal River with the end moraine of the Yazghil glacier in sight. Although the path is flat, there are some difficult sections due to the large stones along the riverbank. The river water level was high at this time, and the yaks were given ropes from the other side of the river to pull them across.

ヤクに乗って移動することもできます。「ヤク・サファリ」と呼ばれています。 — Yak rides are also available. It is known as a ‘yak safari’

ヤズギール氷河のエンドモレーンを眼前に望みムシャール川沿いを直進 — Walk straight ahead along the Shimshal river with the end moraine of the Yazghil glacier in sight

We crossed the river at the bridge at the point where the Shimshal and its tributary, the Pamir Tang, meet, and had lunch at the hut beyond. After this began the steep climb up. It still being the first day, our legs and feet hadn’t quite gotten used to the climb yet.

Gradually, the angle from which we looked down at Yazghil glacier changed, and after a while we reached a campsite with a nice view. As the sun set, we could see the village of Shimshal in the evening.

Day 2: Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m) to Peryen Sar (3,850m)

谷を見下ろしながら歩く — Walking, overlooking the valley

From here, we walked on cliffs and the somewhat dangerous parts of the landslide zone. The tense climb made us feel even more fatigued. Eventually, after descending a steep valley, the campsite at Past Furzin (3,550m) came into view. Further along the cliff path, we reached Wuch Furzin (3,365m), where we took lunch.

After crossing the suspension bridge to the other side of the river, we made a perilous trek to Prien-e-Ben (3,596m). The route was nerve-wracking, but we made it safely to a point overlooking the valley.

吊り橋をわたり対岸へ — Cross the suspension bridge to the other side of the river

プリエン・ベンを見下ろす展望地から、右上のコル(パスト・ダルワザ)までジグザグに急斜面を登る先行ポーター組を眺める — View of porters ahead of us zigzagging up the steep slope

Finally, the treacherous ascent with an elevation difference of about 320m lay before us. To prevent slipping, we climbed step by step, one by one, accompanied by the locals.

標高差約320mの登り — An ascent with a 320m height difference from top to bottom

After a successful ascent, the path led to Past Darwaza (Lower Gate), which featured a gate made of stone. Continuing up the stone and wooden steps, using our hands, we reached the Wuch Darwaza (Upper Gate). We arrived at Prien-e-Sar (3,850m), where we stayed overnight. We had successfully crossed the crux of the approach. The peak of the Minglik Sar was now visible ahead.

パスト・ダルワザ(下の門) — Past Darwaza (Lower Gate)

プリエン・サールのキャンプ地　左奥にはミングリク・サール(6,050m)の頂上がみえる — Peryen Sar campsite. The peak of Minglik Sar (6,050m) can be seen at the far left

Day 3: Peryen Sar (3,850m) to Shuw Jerab (4,350m)

Today, we set our sights on Shuw-Jerab. In the morning, White Horn (6,400m, left) and Distaghil Sar (7,885m) were shining in the sunlight.

朝日に輝くディスタギル・サール(7,885m)とディスタギル・サール(7,885m 影がついている奥の峰) — Distant view of Distaghil Sar (7,885m/left)

Unlike yesterday’s route, today’s was far more wide and open. We continued to Arbab Prien (the campsite on the way back) and crossed the confluence of the Shuw-Jerab and Ganji-Dor rivers.

川の合流地点を目指す — Head to the confluence of the Shuw-Jerab and Ganji-Dor rivers

We had lunch at a place near a willow tree. Continuing along the Shuw Jerab river, we came across some yaks being herded as we approached the summer village. Shuw Jerab is a summer village and pasture where goats, sheep and yaks brought up from Shimshal village spend the summer grazing.

チコールでパスタランチ — Our mountain chef, Noor Khan, preparing a pasta lunch

Day 4: Stay at Shuw Jerab (4,350m)

Today was our day off. We experienced the summer life of the Wakhi people in the Pamirs, including milking yaks and visiting their summer residences. I noted that, compared to goats and sheep, yaks have a certain impressive aura about them.

家畜とともに生きるワヒ族の暮らしを見学 — The lives of the Wakhi people who live with livestock

After that, we hiked to Guruchinwashuk-Sam (4,600m) on the neighboring hill for altitude acclimatization. This was an ascent of 250m. It also served as a practice run for the exposed rock zones which we would be climbing on the day we head to the summit.

グルチンワシュク・サムの丘にて — Guruchinwashuk-Sam (4,600m)

Day 5: Shuw Jerab (4,350m) to Minglik Sar B.C. (4,730m)

It took about 3 to 4 hours to get to Minglik Sar B.C. On the way, we passed Minglik Sar on our left. Depending on the angle, it looks like a gently sloping mountain, and at its foot are two lakes, Zak Zoi and Lup Zoi. This time, we set up camp at B.C. along Zak Zoi.

ザック・ゾーイ沿いにB.C.を設置 — B.C. set up on the shore of Zak Zoi

The weather forecast said it would improve from the next day, so we decided to take another day to get used to the altitude. Meanwhile, we cooked the sheep we had bought in Shuwerth for 40,000 rupees and enjoyed it alongside some Japanese curry.

Day 6: Stay at Minglik Sar B.C. (4,730m)

In the evening it started to snow, and the base camp was transformed into a winter wonderland. It also became very cold—the temperature dropped below freezing. I thought we wouldn’t be able to make any progress, but the snow stopped, so we went on a high altitude acclimatization trek, which also gave us a chance to inspect the climbing route. The sun came out and we could see that the weather was gradually improving. The snow on the ground was also melting.

高所順応トレッキングに出発！ — Trekking to acclimatize to the altitude.

高所順応途中(約4,000m)にB.C.方面を振り返る。 — Looking at B.C. at altitude of 4,000m。

In the afternoon, we checked our equipment and relaxed. Those who wanted to move around more visited the summer settlement of Shuwelth.

ウスユキソウ属の花も逞しく咲いている — Flowers of the genus Leontopodium

B.C.(4,730m)から望んだミングリク・サール(6,050m) — Mingliq Sar (6,050m) viewed from B.C.

We can clearly see Minglik Sar, and our expectations rise.
To be continued in the second part…

Photo & Text : Osamu KUSUNOKI

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024, Shimshal Pamir, Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan

▼Related articles

”Kuch”, a summer in Shimshal Pamir

Shimshal Pamir: Will you try the Kuch? I did!

Where is Shimshal Pamir?

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Shimshal Pamir.

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Shimshal
Tag : Shimshal , Peryen Sar , Shimshal Pamir , Past fruzin , Shimshal Pamir Trekking , Wuch fruzin , Yak , Shuw Jerab , Yazghil Glacier , Shuwerth , Karakorum Trekking , Minglik Sar , Shimhsla village , Kuch , Ghar-e-sar

20.08.2024 update

Kaghan Valley ; Himalayan Bird Watching in Summer

The best places to go birding and see Himalayan birds in Pakistan are the Margalla Hills in winter and the Kaghan Valley in summer. Birds that have spent the winter in the Margalla Hills, the Punjab Plains, and even in places as far away as southern India and Sri Lanka, come to the Kaghan Valley around May to breed and spend the summer. They reside in the valley’s moist temperate Himalayan forests (comprised mostly of evergreen conifers with some deciduous trees), which span an area of around 2,000~2,800 m.

The following is a record of my birding experience in the Kaghan Valley in late May. Many places in the Kaghan Valley, including Narang, have undergone development to accommodate domestic tourists (if I am to be honest, overtourism has left them in a terrible state), and birdwatchers are advised to avoid visiting during peak season or on weekends.

We walked along the slopes of a coniferous forest with giant pine trees and explored the streams and cultivated areas. During this visit, in addition to birds, we were able to observe two species of flying squirrels (the Kashmir flying squirrel and the red giant flying squirrel), as well as a rare species of Kashmir langur.

Here are some of the birds we encountered during our three days and two nights of birding.

This is a species I have encountered many times. The great barbet is widely distributed in Southeast Asia and South Asia, but is found only in limited areas in Pakistan, such as the Kaghan Valley and Murree. Being of 32~35 cm in length, it is the largest bird in the barbet family.

A verditer flycatcher (male). This summer bird is easy to observe as it often perches on top of tall trees.

Yellow-billed blue magpie are omnivores and can be encountered in a variety of situations. This family of corvids can be seen year-round in the Himalayan foothills.

A Himalayan bulbul. This is a species of bulbul found year-round in the area from Swat Valley to Chitral, and from Margalla Hills to Kaghan Valley.

A streaked laughingthrush. This bird is found year-round in northern Pakistan and could be observed daily in the Kaghan Valley.

A grey bushchat (male). This species makes short migrations (between 1900 m~3000 m) in the Himalayas and can be seen everywhere in the Kaghan Valley in summer. Females are buff (cream to light brown) in color.

A russet sparrow (male). This species seems to be seen year-round in the Kaghan Valley, but also migrates to the Punjab region in winter.

A blue-capped rock thrush (breeding male). A summer bird in northern Pakistan. They migrate to southern India in winter. It would be great to get a picture of the breeding males!

A lemon-rumped warbler. This bird makes short winter and summer migrations in the Himalayan foothills.

A green-backed tit breeding in a hole in a large dead pine tree. They can be seen year-round, but some migrate down to the Margalla Hills in winter.

A western crowned warbler, a summer bird of northern Pakistan that migrates to peninsular India for the winter.

A rufous-bellied niltava. This summer bird is observed in limited areas such as Murree and Kaghan Valley.

A chestnut-bellied nuthatch. A deciduous forest bird that is seen year-round in limited areas of Pakistan such as Murree and the Kaghan Valley.

A long-tailed minivet (male). Migrates to the foothills of the Himalayas in summer and along the Indus system to the central Punjab Plain in winter. Females have gray backs and yellow bellies.

An Indian blue robin (male). A summer bird of the temperate Himalayan forests. Its beautiful chirping echoed in the forest while we were observing it. In winter, it migrates to peninsular India and Sri Lanka, where it can be seen not only in forests but also in tea plantations.

A rock bunting, a summer bird of northern Pakistan that migrates to the Punjab plains and northern Balochistan in winter.

A black-and-yellow grosbeak (male). Found year-round in temperate Himalayan forests.。

A Himalayan bluetail. This summer bird of northern Pakistan migrates to the Himalayan foothills in winter. It used to be treated as a subspecies of the red-flanked bluetail, but due to differences in migration distance and the darker blue coloration of the adult male, it became an independent species.

The spot-winged tit or black-crested tit, a bird found year-round in the Himalayan coniferous forest zone, used to be treated independently as a species, but is now considered a subspecies of the coal tit.

A Himalayan woodpecker (male). This woodpecker is found year-round in the Himalayan forests of northern Pakistan.

Eurasian jackdaws observed from the parking lot of the Balakot restaurant where we had lunch. Their white eyes are very distinctive. We were also able to observe an Asian paradise-flycatcher in Balakot.

On a related note, I would like to share with you some of the other wildlife we encountered besides birds. My encounter with a rare Kashmir langur was so engrossing that I briefly forgot to keep looking for birds. At night, we observed two species of flying squirrels. Thanks to these activities, we had a very busy three days from early morning to midnight.

This animal is listed as endangered by the ICUN due to habitat loss. It is a member of the langur family, which is difficult to encounter due to its large migratory distance.

Flying squirrels start their activities at night, when they are no longer targeted by birds of prey, and we got the chance to observe two species, the red giant flying squirrel and the Kashmir flying squirrel, over the course of two evenings.

Finally, a photo of some other group members who enjoyed birding together. The birder population in Pakistan seems to be increasing!

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

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Category : - Kaghan valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
Tag : Pakistan Photography Tour , Bird watching in Pakistan , Wildlife Photography Pakistan , Birds of Pakistan , Wildlife Tour Pakistan , Pakistan Blog , Birding in Pakistan , Pakistan Travel Blog , Kaghan valley , Travel Pakistan Blog , Kaghan , Wildlife of Pakistan , Himalayan Birds , Indus Caravan , Bird watching tour Pakistan , Pakistan Travel company , Pakistan tour operator

20.07.2024 update

Over the Khyber Pass

The Khyber Pass is located between Peshawar and the border with Afghanistan. Since ancient times, it has been an important pass on the trade route between the Central Asian and Indian cultural regions. The mountain where the pass is located is called Spin Ghar (in the Pashto language) and was crossed by Alexander the Great’s army in the 4th century B.C., as well as by Xuanzang in the 7th century. During the Mughal period, it developed as part of the Grand Trunk Road, the main road from Agra, India to Kabul, Afghanistan. In modern times, it was a battlefield in the Afghan War during the British colonial period. After independence, it became an autonomous region of the Pashto tribe called the Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA), but that system was abolished in 2018. Foreigners visiting the area must have prior permission and be accompanied by security. When tourists talk about going to the Khyber Pass, it generally means visiting the area from the Khyber gate to the Michini check post.

Bab-e-Khyber and Jamrud Fort

This monumental gate was built in 1963 and is located 18 km from the center of Peshawar city. There is a small park next to the gate where the history of the Khyber Pass is inscribed on a stone tablet. Khyber Gate also appears on the Pakistani 10-rupee bill.

Just past the Khyber Gate, on the right, is Jamrud Fort. It was built by the Sikhs in 1823 on top of an old fort. General Hari Singh Nalwa, a hero of the Sikhs, was killed and buried at Jamrud Fort while fighting Afghans. The fort is manned by the Pakistani army and entry is not allowed.

A camel milk vendor from Punjab walking through Khyber Gate

Until 2007, there was a large Afghan refugee camp (Kacha Garhi refugee camp) near the Khyber gate; many refugees came and went through this gate from the Soviet invasion in 1979 until the end of the Afghanistan war.

Khyber Pass Viewpoint

The photo of the Khyber Pass shown in the guidebook features a view looking back toward Peshawar from the road on the way to the border. The road is now newly widened and is lined with transport trucks coming and going from the border, but it must have once provided a dramatic sight of the Gandhara Plain spread out in front of the caravans coming from Afghanistan.

Shagai Fort

The fortress was built by the British in the 1920s to monitor the Khyber Pass route. It is currently manned and monitored by the Pakistani Army. On the other side of the fort there is a new monument and a lookout tower.

Ali Masjid

This is the narrowest part of the Khyber Pass road, flanked by mountains on both sides. It was originally so narrow that two loaded camels could just barely pass each other. Because of its strategic importance, it was the site of fierce battles in past wars. The road has been gradually widened, but even today, the lanes are separated, with the lane heading toward Peshawar being built on a cliff.

The small Ali Masjid (a mosque), as well as a madrasa can be found along the road. The Ali Masjid Fort, where the Pakistani army is stationed, is located on top of the hill.

The Ali Masjid mosque along the road. A larger mosque is currently under construction.

Ali Masjid Fort overlooking the narrow road

Palatial Residence (Fort) of Ayub Afridi

Ayub Afridi is a well-known drug lord and tribal politician, known for the many interesting stories about his contacts with the United States, among other topics. Along the road is a wall of mansions with more than 100 rooms.

Sphola Stupa

The stupa dates back to the 2nd-3rd century Kushan period and is built on a three-tiered platform. Excavations in the early 20th century unearthed a Buddha statue, and as of 2024, the base of the temple is being restored. It is the only Gandhara Buddhist site in the Khyber Pass area.

Emblem of the Military Corps

The troops of various time periods who passed through the area carved their military emblems into the rock face as a commemoration of their passage.

Khyber Railway

There was a time when a steam locomotive operated once a month for tourists between Peshawar and Landi Kotal. The Khyber railway has a long history, having opened in 1926 during British rule era for the purpose of transporting military supplies. The railway runs from Peshawar to Landi Kotal, a distance of 40 km with a height difference of 600 m, crossing 34 tunnels and 92 railway bridges.

The area was devastated by heavy rains and flooding in 2006, and there is absolutely no hope of restoration. Currently, only the remains of damaged tracks, tunnels, steel bridges, and stations can be seen.

A preserved steam locomotive in Peshawar

Landi Kotal

The last town on the Pakistani side is Landi Kotal. Stores are spread out over an even lower level of the town’s main street. It was once known for its smuggled goods bazaar which dealt in arms and drugs. Today, there is still a vibrant market.

Landi Kotal people cheerfully talking to tourists

Michini Check Post

The last point on the Pakistan side that can be visited without an Afghanistan visa is the Michini Check Post, which overlooks the border town of Torkham. The border town of Torkham is 5 km downhill from here. The rocky mountains across the border are numbered from 1 to 3, and the border line between the two countries is the point where these lines are connected.

The Michini Check Post has a viewpoint where tourists can enter. From the viewpoint, there is an old building called the Taimoor Fort or Tamerlane Fort, which according to legend was used as a prison during Timur’s invasion of India.

Torkham Border

Approaching the border there is a dry port and an immigration control building. As of 2024, the Torkham border is the only open border between Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Porters carrying luggage and money changers waiting at the border

Corridor between Pakistan and Afghanistan

The border with Afghanistan is connected by a long corridor, and from there it is 230 km to Kabul, which takes about 6 hours by car.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

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Category : - Peshawar / Khyber Pass > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > Uncategorized
Tag : Torkham , Permits for Khyber Pass , Afghanistan , Afghanistan tour , Afghanitan travel , Peshawar , Tour operator in Afghanistan , Khyber Gate , Travel company in Afghanistan , Michini Check post , Khyber Pass , Border crossing to Afghanistan , Shagai Fort , Torkham Border , Ali Masjid , Sphora Stupa , Landi Kotal , Khyber Pass excursion

29.06.2024 update

Re-discovering Afghanistan：Bamiyan Valley

“Bamiyan? There are no more big Buddha statues there, right?”

In March 2001, two huge Buddha statues, one 55 meters and the other 38 meters high, were cruelly destroyed by the Taliban of the time. It was an eye-opening event that made the world aware of the Taliban and the situation in Afghanistan at that time.

Though the Great Buddha has been lost and many of the caves destroyed, the valley of Bamiyan has much more to offer than that. Nowadays, the bazaar has expanded, more hotels have been built, and Bamiyan now attracts domestic tourists from Kabul and other urban areas on weekends as well as foreign tourists. Those who knew the old Bamiyan will be surprised at its changes.

There are two routes from the capital Kabul to Bamiyan. One is the so-called ”northbound route over the Shibar Pass“ and the other is the ”southbound route over the Hajigak Pass“. Both routes lead to the Shahr-i-Zohak, which stands in front of the checkpoint at the entrance to the Bamiyan Valley.

Shahr-i-Zohak

Shahr-i-Zohak is the remains of a fortress located at the confluence of the Bamiyan and Kalu Rivers, 17 kilometers east of the town of Bamiyan. The present ruins of the fort are said to date back to the reign of the Shansabani kings in the 12th century (during the Genghis Khan invasion), but in fact it was used as a natural fortress from around the 6th century. It is said that remains from the Buddhist period were also found. It was also used in modern warfare during the civil war. In the evening sun, Shahr-i-Zohak glows red, giving it the nickname ”Red City.“ From the top of the fort, you can see the beautiful valley along the Kar River.

Passing Shahr-i-Zohak, you can continue to Bamiyan. On your left, you will see the ruins of an old caravanserai, followed by the village of the Hazara people. Soon you will see a group of caves ahead. These are the Bamiyan Caves.

Bamiyan Caves

The Bamiyan Caves are comprised of approximately 750 caves built over a length of 1,300 m on the northern cliffs of the Bamiyan Valley. Located on the east and west sides of the caves are the Western Buddha (55 m high) and Eastern Buddha (38 m high), both of which were destroyed by the Taliban in 2001. In 2003, the site was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as the ”Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of the Bamiyan Valley“. In the past, UNESCO and archaeologists from various countries were working to restore and preserve the site, but conservation work has been suspended since the new Taliban regime came to power.

As of 2024, visitors can walk from the West Buddha to the East Buddha and climb the stairs to the interior of the East Buddha. The caves with remaining murals are often locked to protect them from destruction by local tourists.

Part of the Buddha statue that was blown up and collapsed in March 2001

Mural paintings remaining on the terrace of the East Buddha

As you go up inside the East Buddha, you can see a view of the Bamiyan Valley from the terraced caves and the terrace near where the head of the Buddha used to be. The area between the Bamiyan Caves and the bazaar has been preserved without development as a UNESCO Scenic Area, but after the new Taliban regime, this has not been followed and new gas stations and stores have begun to be built.

Bamiyan Valley seen from the terrace of the East Buddha niche

The large hill at the edge of town is Shahr-i-Gholghola.

Shahr-i-Gholghola

Shahr-i-Gholghola is the ruins of a fort, which was also known as the ”City of Screams“. 12th century Bamiyan was a prosperous city of the Shansabani dynasty, the successor to the Ghurid dynasty, but it was turned into a ghost town after Genghis Khan’s army attacked the city in 1221. The screams of those slaughtered at that time were the reason for the fort’s name. Although part of the ruins have been renovated and renewed with international aid, some people say that it has been cleaned up too much and was more impressive in the past. From the top of the fort, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Bamiyan Valley.

In addition to the famous Bamiyan Caves, there are two other cave complexes in Bamiyan: the Foladi Caves and the Kakrak Caves. Both caves are located by the river and are accessible by a short walk. Tourists who visited here before the Soviet invasion used to visit the Kakrak Caves in the evening and call the standing Buddha statue “Sunset Buddha,” because of the view when the setting sun shone on it.

Foladi Caves

This is a group of about 50 caves built along the Foladi River, which runs along the west side of the Bamiyan Valley. Although the caves are damaged because villagers continue to use them as livestock pens and dwellings, ceiling decorations such as those of the Laternendecke can still be seen. It is a peaceful place where visitors can see glimpses of village life.

People have used the grottoes as livestock pens and dwellings.

Kakrak Caves

A group of caves built along the Kakrak River, which runs along the eastern side of the Valley. These caves are the site of the famous red-toned mural paintings that are kept in the Guimet Museum in France and the Kabul Museum. There was a 6.4-meter-high standing Buddha statue, but it was destroyed by the former Taliban regime in 2001, along with two Great Buddha statues. The ruins of an Islamic watchtower can be seen on top of the caves. Although nothing remains, visitors can enjoy a typical view of Bamiyan Valley while walking through the farmland.

A wall niche that once housed a standing Buddha, destroyed by the Taliban in 2001 along with two Great Buddha

Dragon Valley

The valley is located 9 km southwest of Bamiyan. According to legend, when a village girl was about to be sacrificed to a dragon, a brave man (Hazrat Ali) confronted the dragon and cut it in two. The dragon cried tears of regret. The dragon’s split back is the cleft in the rock, and the ”tears” still flow as a mineral spring. After the civil war, this valley, which had been empty, has grown into a new residential area.

The place that corresponds to the “dragon’s back

At the bottom is “Tears of the Dragon”, a mineral spring gushing out

This has been a brief introduction to the highlights of the Bamiyan Valley, but since the topic of our discussion is Afghanistan, some of you may be wondering whether there are still any remnants from the civil war. In Bamiyan and the surrounding area, mine clearing began at an early stage. For a while after the civil war, tanks were seen here and there on the road from Kabul to Bamiyan and in the valley, but they are long gone now.

This is surprising, isn’t it? It was painted by an Iranian artist.

Remaining self-propelled anti-aircraft gun on the Shibar Pass

Perhaps the best-preserved tank in the vicinity of Bamiyan is the one on top of Shibar Pass.
Here we have an everyday scene from the bazaar in Bamiyan.

Bamiyan is famous for growing potatoes. Walking around the village, you will encounter many people.

A father and kids met in a potato field in Kakrak

The valley of Bamiyan is photogenic and inspiring enough just for its scenery surrounded by the Hindu Kush mountains and the seasonal life of the Hazara people.

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

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Category : ◆Afghanistan > - Bamiyan & around
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