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Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

The period of the Kalash Chawmos Festival known as “Ditch” is considered to be highly sacred. On the day of Pushao Adu, two sacrifices are performed: the first, called “Pushao Marat,” is a sacrifice to the gods done at Sajigor, and the second, “Istongas,” is a purification ritual for men. At the same time, a children’s rite of passage known as Goshnik is also performed.

At the guesthouse, the people were all abuzz with chatter. I heard them proclaiming that Balimain has arrived, and that the earthquake they’d had the previous night was actually the sound of Balimain’s arrival. They say that Balimain will stay to watch the sacrificial ceremony and the large bonfire at night, before moving on to the Bumburet Valley.

In the morning, all men in the valley wash their bodies and put on new clothes and shoes. The women wash all dishes and clean the house. After this, in addition to the existing rules about not touching Muslims, new rules are added until the sacred period is over. These rules state that no cleaning is to take place, that bread made before yesterday must not be eaten, and that bread must be made with new flour. Because of this, new dough was not available in time, so we had to have rice from Ayun for breakfast (which was very tasty).

Villagers singing and dancing from the early morning.

Pushao Marat – Sacrifice to God 

In the morning, the villagers gathered in the square to sing and dance, and at about 10:00 a.m., the large male goats selected from each family were taken to Sajigor. The men began to walk to Sajigor alongside the animals. Since women are not allowed to participate in the sacrificial ritual, this photo was taken by a Kalash man. While the ritual was happening, the women celebrated by singing and dancing.

Male goats for sacrifice go to Sajigor. The most magnificent male goat from each stable is chosen.
Upon arrival at Sadigor, preparations for the ritual begin.
A goat with fine horns like a markhor’s.
More than 30 male goats were sacrificed to the gods that day.
The altar of sacrifice.
The meat of the sacrificial goats is eaten especially during the sacred period and also used in a stew called Pushao Mos.

Goshnik – Rite of passage for children 

Goshnik is a rite of passage for children, after which the boy or girl becomes a member of Kalash and observes its commandments. The parents of the child who is to receive the rite prepare fruits and gifts for the uncle who performs the rite. The uncle offers a male goat as a present. The relatives gather for the celebration, and the parents serve fruit and wine. I also saw visiting relatives give money to children undergoing this rite.

An uncle performing the ceremony dresses his nephew in ceremonial garb.
Relatives receiving fruit, dried fruit, and wine from parents.
Two brothers who underwent the ceremony. Boys undergo the Goshnik ceremony twice, once between the ages of 3~5, and the second time between the ages of 5~8. Parents save money by having both brothers perform the ceremony at the same time. Incidentally, girls only have to undergo the Goshnik ceremony once.
Villagers travel around the houses singing and dancing, bringing blessings during the Goshnik ritual.
Villagers clap their hands and sing. The children respond by taking part in a ritual dance.

 Purush Istongas – Sacrifices for the Purification of Men

Sacrifices are performed on the roof of the goat stable. The blood of the sacrifice is sprinkled on the faces of the lined-up men in a purification ritual. The Istongas ritual is held in the evening. This photo was taken by a Kalash man.

The roof of the goat stable is purified and sacrifices are performed.
Blood is sprinkled.
A Kalash man who has now been purified.

The sacrificial goat will be dismembered here and become the meat that is eaten during this sacred period. On this day, I learned a great deal about the beliefs and lifestyle of Kalash, a place where the ritual of sacrifice is still alive.

 

Text: Mariko SAWADA

Photo: Mariko SAWADA & Jamil

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

*The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

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*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

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