English / Japanese

INDUS CARAVAN

Tag: Indus Caravan

10.01.2020 update

Encounters On The National Highway NH-5 : Harvest Season !

In November, it is the harvest season for wheat and millet in Sindh State.

 

Travelling along the National Highway 5 from Karachi towards Thatta, we could see the trucks completely overloaded and overflowing as they were heading to Karachi. These trucks are carrying the wheat harvested from the local farmers. They are probably headed towards the livestock feed companies in Karachi.

 

On the way, we could encounter the field workers who were manually carrying the harvest to load the trucks.

 

This grueling work is conducted by about 15 men who work from the early morning hours for 9 hours. The weight the trucks carry fully loaded can be about 24 tons.

 

With the truck loaded, and their work complete, the workers also climb on top of the truck for the ride back. Taking their time, the trucks roll along towards Karachi. This is a typical scene that one might see in Pakistan during harvest season.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit : Nov 2019, On NH-5 road from Karachi, Sindh

Category : - National & Indus Highway > ◆ Sindh
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
03.01.2020 update

Kashmir Markhor – Gahirat Castle 1912

A lovely place to stay …  a  hotel introduced by a hunter acquaintance for the observation of Kashmir Markhor, Gahirat Castle Hotel 1912.

There are several hotels in the Chitral area that belong to the former Chitral princely state. Gahirat Castle 1912 is one of that and it has a private game reserve of 95,000 hectares, where about 700 Kashmir Markhors live.

 

In the morning and evening, you can see Hindu Kush’s highest peak Tirich Mir 7,708m from the vicinity of the Gahirat Castle. The perfect view beyond the wide Chitral Valley.

 

Gahirat Community Game Reserve—It is in a mountainous area, upstream of the Gahirat River. It’s vegetation is an ideal environment for Kashmir Markhor and the valley is narrow which is suitable for our observation as well.

 

A female Kashmir Markhor continuously looking at us.

In 2009, when the current owner began protecting Kashmir Markhor, the game reserve had only about 60 Kashmir Markhor.   Consequently through protection in accordance with the rules of trophy hunting and enforcement of laws against illegal hunting, it is said that number has increased to about 700 as of 2019.

Trophy hunting at the Gahirat Community Game Reserve has a quota of one Kashmir Markhor per year.  The amount of shooting permit from the government starts from about USD 100,000 (It is a surprise).  This is a system in which a hunting company drops it at an auction and sells it to customers. Most of this revenue is returned to the community. Nine gamekeepers were cracking down on illegal hunting for one trophy hunting in this game reserve.

 

Official trophy hunting began in 2000 at Gahirat Community Game Reserve, and there are 18 records by 2019.  The trophy hunting is limited to those old males with more than 40 inches horns.

The Kashmir Markhor displayed in the hotel’s living room is the trophy of the current owner’s grandfather, with 58 inches horn, the third-largest Kashmir Markhor trophy in the world.

To be honest, I don’t accept hunting or trophy hunting but I think it’s much better than the time when illegal hunting was rampant, encouraging local residents to understand conservation even the purpose for Trophy hunting.

 

Finally, when you come back from the Game Reserve, Gahirat Castle 1912 is a wonderful place to stay.  When you enter the building, you will be greeted by the historical heritage gems.

 

Pair of Himalayan Bulbul.

 

At 6:30 in the morning, you can hear the birds chirping. A blissful moment to go out in the middle of the garden and observe the birds.
I observed a good number of Himalayan Bulbul, White-eared Bulbul, Blue-whistling Thrush, Great Tit, Eurasian tree sparrow, Bank Myna, Streaked Laughingthrush, etc.
A great stay in nature, the Gahirat Castle 1912.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit :Oct 2019, Gahirat Castle 1912 & Gahirat Community Game Reserve, Chitral, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Category : ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > - Markhor > - Chitral > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
26.12.2019 update

Himalayan Brown Bear in Summer – Deosai National Park

The Deosai Plateau – Land of the Giants – on the border with India is known as a habitat for the Himalayan brown bears.

However, it is not something you can see easily if you go to the Deosai Plateau. In addition, It has been a target of hunting for many years. They are very timid and run away quickly.
Furthermore, there are too many tourists in summer, and Himalayan brown bears go deep in the valley. So you have to walk a lot to meet them.

From a camp at altitude of about 4,000m, we went up to a valley where the altitude rises a little and countless creeks flow.

 

Suddenly the accompanying ranger shouted with surprise, “Bear!”

I quickly took out tripod and snapped the picture with the best possible zoom.
Two bears! A Mother bear and its cub. Wait… The mother bear is observing something.

 

It was a male Himalayan brown bear that the mother bear was looking at.
Mother bear and cub walked towards us in the grass along the creek avoiding this male.

Luckily, we were downwind and were able to come to a relatively closer position for observation of the Himalayan brown bear without being noticed by the bear.

 

Oh, bear cub found us, looking at us how cute!

 

Mother bear also found us, standing upright and staring at us.

 

Finally both of them looking at us. A dreamy camera angle. After this, unfortunately the two headed away.

 

Afterwards, Mommy bear and cub appeared a little away. They were moving while searching various things in the grassland.

 

When a cub was doing strange actions on the rock, they were observing another female Himalayan brown bear.
The other female bear completely ignored them and passed across them.

 

After that, the cub bear had a little sleep and played in the pastures.

 

At last, the mommy bear and cub went over the hill. It was really a beautiful, unforgettable sight.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Jul 2017, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan
Reference : Mr. Ghulman Raza – Deosai National Park, Mr. Zahoor Salmi (late)

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Himalayan Brown Bear > - Deosai National Park
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
19.12.2019 update

White-browed Wagtail – Soon Valley

A White-browed Wagtail observed in Uchhali Lake in Soon Valley. Uchhali Lake is a salty blackish water lake and insects live on the shore; where birds feed upon.
At the lake pier, we saw a pair of White-browed Wagtail  feeding on the insects.
White-browed Wagtail is 21cm in length, the largest among Wagtail family.
White-browed Wagtail is endemic to Indian sub-continent. In Pakistan, it lives in northern Punjab year-round.

A White-browed Wagtail carrying material for  the nest.
You can listen to the beautiful songs during the breeding season from March to October.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab

Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , ,
12.12.2019 update

Blue-throated barbet (Margalla Hills)

Blue-throated barbet observed at Margalla Hills, Trail No. 5 in Islamabad.

 

Blue-throated barbet is a barbet which can be seen in the forests spread throughout from the Indian subcontinent to Southeast Asia. It has a very distinct beautiful bright blue colored face and throat.

 

In Pakistan, Blue-throated barbet can only be seen in the forest around Murree hills.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : End of OCT, Margalla Hills National Park – Trail No5, Islamabad
Reference : Helm Field Guide “Birds of Pakistan”

Category : - Margalla Hills > ◆ Islamabad > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , ,
06.12.2019 update

Rufous-bellied niltava (Margalla Hills)

This is Rufous-bellied niltava that I encountered at Margalla Hills, Trail No.5.

 

Rufous-bellied niltava is found in temperate forests from South China to Southeast Asia and South Asia.

In Pakistan, it is found in Murree and Kaghan Valley, which are the southern foot of the Himalayas at an altitude of 1,800m to 2,600m . In winter it descends down to a lower place.

 

I went on Saturday at 7 am, before going to Office, but already many people were walking on the trail.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : End of OCT, Margalla Hills National Park – Trail.No.5, Islamabad
Reference : Helm Field Guides “Birds of Pakistan”

Category : - Margalla Hills > ◆ Islamabad > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , ,
27.11.2019 update

Sunrise at Gorakh Hill Station

Gorakh Hill is a popular tourist destination in Sindh.

Drive to west from N55 (commonly known as the Indus Highway), it is a plateau of 1,700m above sea level in the Kiltar Mountains. View is similar to mountainside of Balochistan and the people who live along the road are Baloch people.

The name of Gorakh is derived from a Hindu devotee who believes in Shiva. Yes, Sindh is the state where 94% of Pakistani Hindus live.

 

The altitude rose from the plains of Sindh and finally we came above the clouds! This is the trail which can be done only by 4WD and it took a lot of time, so we missed the sunset on this day.

 

Despite that bad road, it is a busy place for tourists coming from urban areas such as Karachi on weekends. Since we visited on weekdays, there were only a few groups, but sometimes it could exceed 1000 people. Coming from hot place to a cool plateau, watching sunset and sunrise, campfire at night … such a trip is very popular among young tourists.

 

We went to the Benazir viewpoint to see sunrise.

 

Good Morning, Gorakh hill !

 

A villa-like building was built in a nice view of the plateau. Will it eventually become like Murre in the suburbs of Islamabad? I wanted to leave a magnificent view of the Kirthar Mountains and it’s nature.

 

This is the viewpoint … located edge of plateau.

 

After the sunrise, breakfast was served in a restaurant run by Juman Jamali.
The experience at Gorakh hill …. I couldn’t think that I am in Sindh.

Photo  & Text : Mariko SAWADA * Some photos are taken by drone.
Visit: Nov 2019, Gorakh Hill Station, Dadu, Sindh

 

Category : - Gorakh Hills > ◆ Sindh
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
21.11.2019 update

Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-5

Chandragup mud volcano in Hingol National Park, Balochistan.

A mud volcano is a landform shaped by the outburst of mud, water, and gases. It’s called “volcano” but it is not inevitably related to the distinctive volcanic activity. It only erupts out mud along with methane gas. The Arabian Plate subducts into the Eurasian Plate in the coastal area of Balochistan. In many cases, volcanic activity is active in such places but in the case of Balochistan, huge “mud volcano area” has emerged.

There are three mud volcanoes at Chandragup and there are distinct descriptions of “Chandragup 1”, “Chandragup 2”and “Chandragup 3”, depending on the documents. It seems to be sure, the highest one which is for the sacred Hindu pilgrimage is “Chandragup 1”. However, I don’t know which is 2 or 3 for the other two volcanoes. I comprehend it in the order of height.

 

The crater of second highest mud volcano in Chandragup – “Chandragup 2” . The previous season was dry with no activity, but this year mud erupted from within and began to accumulate in the crater. What an entrancing view of the crater reflecting light of golden hour.

 

“Chandragup 2” is a mud volcano with a gentle steady slope, and has a gorgeous landscape created by the mud flow.

 

“Chandragup mud volcano 2” seen from directly above. The beauty created by mud; truly a remarkable sight.

 

Sunset from “Chandragup mud volcano 2” . Fortunately, it was a blessed day with a beautiful sunset.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA * Some photos are drone shots.

Special Thanks: Yoko Kadonaga for photograph from Crater edge

Visit: Nov 2019, Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
16.11.2019 update

Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-4

While driving along the Makran Coastal Highway towards Kund Malir, you can see several mud volcanoes in the rugged mountains of Hingol National Park visible from the road. This mud volcano is one of them.

A mud volcano is a landform created by the eruption of mud, water, and gases. It’s called “volcano” but it is not necessarily related to the typical volcanic activity with lava. It only erupts out mud along with methane gas. The Arabian Plate subducts into the Eurasian Plate in the coastal area of Balochistan. In many cases, volcanic activity is active in such places, but in the case of Balochistan, huge “mud volcanic area” has emerged.

>> Other article about Mud Volcanoes in Hingol National Park :  1   2   3

 

Moreover, there is a large mud volcano next to it. Although it is the same mud volcano, its appearance is quite different.

 

Walk to the base of this mud volcano.

In early November, I walked on the mud volcanic area with the first Balochistan tour of this season. It takes time here because there are soft spots and you have to walk carefully. Nevertheless, the landscape created by the mud is stunning and beguiling.

The temperature was high on this day and it was really difficult to walk after 10 o’clock. However, in November, Balochistan is also the turning point of the season, and morning and evening time is pleasant to spend.

 

Photo & Text  : Mariko SAWADA * Some photos are drone shots.

Visit: Nov 2019, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
06.11.2019 update

Nani Mandir, Hindu Temple in Pakistan –Hingol National Park

Pakistan, a country created for Muslims in the name of Islam.

However, there are Hindus and other religious minorities living in Pakistan and undoubtedly there are Hindu temples for Hindus to worship.

From the outset, I was confounded when a typical looking Pakistani man wearing shalwar kameez came to me and said, “Yes, I’m Hindu”.

 

Nani Mandir – also known as Hinglaj Mata – a Hindu Temple in Hingol National Park, Balochistan. It is a popular and sacred pilgrimage site for Hindus living in Pakistan.

Moreover, it is said that about 40,000 pilgrims come every year during the April pilgrimage season. A stunning number which can ideally increment if Pakistan India relations show signs of improvement.

 

It was said that 14% of the Pakistani population were Hindus and Sikhs before the partition of the subcontinent in 1947.

Numerous Hindus relocated to India during this period and the Hindu populace tumbled to 1.6%.

According to Pakistan-Hindu Council currently, 8 million Hindus live in Pakistan. It is the second-largest religious group in Pakistan, accounting for 4% of Pakistan’s total population of 200 million. Notably, 94% of them live in Sindh.

 

When we visited the hallowed Nani Mandir, the priest briefed us about the Hindu faith, the temple’s history and the great pilgrimage of spring.

Hinduism in Muslim dominating Pakistan … It was a new discovery.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Nov 2018, Nani Mandir / Hinglaj Mata – Hingol National Park, Balochistan

 

 

Category : - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

TOP