Pakistan Photography Tour – Page 14

12.11.2019 update

Kashmir Markhor Mother and Kid just across the river!

In the mountainous and rugged area near Chitral, there are several places where Kashmir Markhor can be observed.

Markhor is the national animal of Pakistan. There are 4 subspecies; Astor Markhor, Kabul Markhor, Kashmir Markhor, and Suleiman Markhor inhabited in Pakistan.
Indeed, Pakistan is surprisingly a country with a plethora of Markhors.

In theTooshi-Shasha Conservancy, on the other side of the river along the way to Garam Chashma (hot spring) from Chitral, several groups of Markhor come to drink water from the river in the afternoon.

During this tour we observed a female Markhor and her kid very closely from the river side. But, only female and kid… Where is male?
Males spend most of the year high on the mountains and they descend to low altitudes for mating in month of December.

Markhor not only comes to drink water, but also to eat the leaves and bushes that grow on the river bank.

Kashmir Markhor climbing a tree!

Both mother and kid are standing on hind legs & eating.

Yes, you have to eat well before the harsh winters start!

During the visit, we did not get information about number of Markhor in the Tooshi-Shasha Conservancy. But at at the Chitral Gol National Park nearby, it is said that the number of Markhor has increased to about 2,500.

In fact, I was able to meet Kashmir Markhor easily both in Tooshi-Shasha Conservancy and Chitral Gol National Park. Next time I would like to see “the male Markhor”.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Visit : Oct 2019, Tooshi Game Reserve, Chitral , Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

06.11.2019 update

Nani Mandir, Hindu Temple in Pakistan –Hingol National Park

Pakistan, a country created for Muslims in the name of Islam.

However, there are Hindus and other religious minorities living in Pakistan and undoubtedly there are Hindu temples for Hindus to worship.

From the outset, I was confounded when a typical looking Pakistani man wearing shalwar kameez came to me and said, “Yes, I’m Hindu”.

Nani Mandir – also known as Hinglaj Mata – a Hindu Temple in Hingol National Park, Balochistan. It is a popular and sacred pilgrimage site for Hindus living in Pakistan.

Moreover, it is said that about 40,000 pilgrims come every year during the April pilgrimage season. A stunning number which can ideally increment if Pakistan India relations show signs of improvement.

It was said that 14% of the Pakistani population were Hindus and Sikhs before the partition of the subcontinent in 1947.

Numerous Hindus relocated to India during this period and the Hindu populace tumbled to 1.6%.

According to Pakistan-Hindu Council currently, 8 million Hindus live in Pakistan. It is the second-largest religious group in Pakistan, accounting for 4% of Pakistan’s total population of 200 million. Notably, 94% of them live in Sindh.

When we visited the hallowed Nani Mandir, the priest briefed us about the Hindu faith, the temple’s history and the great pilgrimage of spring.

Hinduism in Muslim dominating Pakistan … It was a new discovery.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Nov 2018, Nani Mandir / Hinglaj Mata – Hingol National Park, Balochistan

Category : - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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26.10.2019 update

Sindh Ibex – Hingol National Park

Sindh Ibex is a mountain goat family that lives in the rugged dry mountainous areas of southern Pakistan. As the name suggests, Kirthar National Park in Sindh is famous for its natural habitat. However, Sindh Ibex also lives in Hingol National Park, Balochistan.

Surprisingly it was easy to meet Sindh Ibex coming to the water in the dry Hingol National Park. It was at the sacred Hinglaj Mata Hindu Temple (also called Nani Mandir) inside the national park. When I approached the shrine, Sindh Ibex was eating grass in quite a close distance.

A male Sindh Ibex. There are two types of Ibex in Pakistan. Himalayan Ibex in the Northern Mountains and Sindh Ibex in the mountains of Sindh and Balochistan. The male horn of Sindh Ibex astoundingly grows 1m long.

Gorgeous female Sindh Ibex and its baby.

Going forward, suddenly I saw a group of Ibex emerging from just above the cliff. Generally, Sindh Ibex seems to move in relatively large groups.

There were a lot of trophy-sized males (ones with large horns permitted to trophy hunting). In Pakistan, Ibex trophy hunting is taking place. However, it is only prohibited inside the national parks and hunting is operated under the rules and regulations by the community forest. For 2019, 50 Himalayan Ibex and 24 Sindh Ibex in Pakistan are allocated for trophy hunting slots.

Hunting?? In this era?? No doubt, I am against hunting, but Pakistan’s hunting situation is likewise identified with conservation and the endurance of the local villagers. Trophy hunting targets only large horned individuals who have no more ability to reproduce. Subsequently, these profits are given to villagers, so villagers crackdown on illegal hunting. Therefore, it is said that the Ibex population has increased in both the northern and southern regions since this system was established.

Energetic young males began battling with their horns.

It’s like a fighting practice. A male Ibex show dominance by fighting with a horn over females when they reach maturity.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit : Feb 2019, Hinglaj Mata/Nani Mandir, Hingol National Park, Balochistan

Category : - Hingol National Park > - Wildlife of Balochistan > - Ibex > ◆ Balochistan
Tag : Wildlife tour in Pakistan , Indus Caravan , Pakistan Wildlife Tour , Saiyu Travel Pakistan , Ibex , Wildlife , Balochistan , Hingol National Park , Pakistan Blog , Balochistan Tour , Pakistan Travel Blog , Pakistan Travel company , Sindh Ibex , Pakistan tour operator , Travel to Balochistan , Pakistan Photography Tour , Wildlife of Balochistan , Wildlife of Pakistan

20.10.2019 update

Cave City of Bela, Gondrani

A Buddhist ruin, located in Balochistan … though its existence is still a mystery …
This bygone site is known as, “The Cave City of Bela” or “Cave city of Gondrani”. It is located on the outskirts of the secluded town of Bela, where you have to go by a 4WD vehicle or walk across the river.

Till this date, we still don’t know the details and the exact history of what these ruins were or for what purpose they were built and from which era.
However, it is said that it is one of the remains of a Buddhist monastery from around the 8th century when it was a territory of a Buddhist kingdom.

The front side is a terrace and there is a room behind it.

A closer view. I had a strong sense of déjà vu when I first came here. It reminded me of a cave of Bamiyan Valley in Afghanistan. The difference from the Bamiyan was that in Bamiyan the caves were with Buddha and some wall paintings and ceiling decorations, but here there were no decorations at all.

As you walk along the path created by the flow of water, the caverns would eventually become smaller and distorted. Some of the caves have hardly remained in shape due to weathering over many years.

I touched about the Buddhist cave in Afghanistan. This is a panoramic view of the majestic Bamiyan Caves. There are over 750 caves spread over 1300m long cliff. These caves started to build from the 5th century and are considered to have reached their peak in the 6th and 7th centuries and ended in the 8th and 10th centuries. Wall painting and decoration remains on the terrace of East Buddha, on the right side of the photo.

More like the Gondrani Caves than the Bamiyan Cave are the Foladi Caves in the Bamiyan valley.

Some people lived in the cave to take refuge during the recent war. There was also a cave with a black ceiling due to fire.

Unlike the Gondrani Caves, the Foladi Caves have beautiful ceiling decorations such as “Laternendecke”.
Above all, we hope that Gondrani (Bela) Cave city’s historical survey will be conducted soon. So that this uncharted place gets historically recognized throughout the world.

Photo & Text : Mariko Sawada
Visit: Nov 2018, Feb 2019 Cave city of Bela/Gondrani, Baluchistan :
Photographs of Bamiyan & Foladi Cave were taken from 2003-2012

Category : ◆ Balochistan > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
Tag : Foladi Cave , Pakistan Travel company , Gondrani , Pakistan tour operator , Pakistan Blog , Pakistan Photography Tour , Pakistan Travel Blog , The Cave City of Bela , Travel to Balochistan , Balochistan , Indus Caravan , Baluchistan , Saiyu Travel Pakistan , Bamiyan , Buddhist ruin of Pakistan , Cave city of Gondrani , Balochistan Tour

14.10.2019 update

Shimshal village in Autumn

This is the wonderful scenery of Shimshal village in late October, enveloped in the golden, yellow, red shades of Autumn. Livestock have returned from Pamir and the village is ready for a tough winter ahead.

The yaks who returned from Pamir were in the field. Large males and some females remain in the Pamir over winter. It is a tradition to survive the cold and tough winter with limited food.

A sunny day, good for washing! Shimshal village on a warm sunny day.

Karun Koh seen from the Shimshal valley. The altitude of Karun Koh peak is 6,977m, 7,164m, or 7,350m depending on the documents.

Just outside the Shimshal village, there are Molonguti Glacier and Disthagil Sar 7,885m. From here we drive off the valley for 3 hours to reach the mighty Karakoram Highway near Passu.

Visit beautiful village of Shimshal – One step off from Karakoram Highway !

Photo & Text: Mariko Sawada

Visit: Oct 2014, Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Shimshal
Tag : Karun Koh , Molonguti Glacier , wakhi , Pakistan Blog , Pakistan Travel company , Pakistan Travel Blog , Pakistan tour operator , Shimshal , Pakistan Photography Tour , Shimshal Pamir , Shimshal Pamir Trekking , Shimshal Village , Indus Caravan , Disthagil Sar , Saiyu Travel Pakistan

03.10.2019 update

The Long-legged Buzzard (Balochistan)

This is a long legged buzzard that was seen on the coast of Kund Malir, in Balochistan. These birds are found throughout the African and Eurasian continents. They breed in Central Asia and then travel to the open areas in southern Pakistan during the winter months.

And there certainly are plenty of ‘open areas’ all over Balochistan. The buzzards often prey on rodents, lizards, small birds etc.

Balochistan is famous as a place where Arab millionaires go to illegally hunt wildlife. These rare birds are unfortunately being targeted for the sake of Eagle Hunting hobbyists. Recently, thankfully, these kinds of threats to the birds are being spotlighted on social media and other media outlets, so now people have more awareness about the problem.

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Nov 2019, Kund Malir, Balochistan

Category : ◆ Balochistan > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
Tag : Kund Malir , Pakistan tour operator , Pakistan Blog , Pakistan Photography Tour , Pakistan Travel Blog , long legged buzzard , Travel to Balochistan , Wildlife of Pakisan , Indus Caravan , Saiyu Travel Pakistan , Balochistan , Birds of Pakistan , Balochistan Tour , Hingol National Park , Pakistan Travel company

16.09.2019 update

Black-winged Stilt – Soon Valley

A Black-winged Stilt observed at Uchhali lake in the Soon Valley. It was feeding on the underwater invertebrates in the shallow water.
Black-winged Stilt is a widely spread water bird; mainly found in Europe, Africa, and South Asia, and is characterized by its long red foot.
When it flies, its feet resemble the tail feathers.
In Pakistan, it travels as a summer bird in northern Punjab. Moreover, it is observed all year round in the waters of southern Punjab, Sindh and on the coast of Balochistan.

Uchhali Lake with black saltwater reflecting the exquisite scenery around the lake.

The lake is surrounded by lush green mountains and tranquil villages.

If there is no wind, the lake surface reflects the view as a clear mirror.

A beautiful and crystal-clear sight of Black-winged Stilt reflected on the surface of the lake, just like a mirror.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab
Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
Tag : Indus Caravan , Birds of Pakistan , Saiyu Travel Pakistan , Black-winged Stilt , Pakistan Travel company , Pakistan Blog , Pakistan tour operator , Pakistan Travel Blog , Pakistan Photography Tour , Soon Valley , Uchhali Lake , Wildlife of Pakistan

08.09.2019 update

Stoat of Deosai Plateau

It is a Stoat, also known as a short-tailed weasel, which I observed at Deosai National Park, in October.
The morning and evening temperatures were below freezing point during this season. The Stoat was completely engulfed in white winter fur; protected from the predators and the harsh cold weather.

A Stoat is widely distributed in northern Eurasia continent and North America. In Pakistan, it is found in the northern mountainous areas.

There was no one where we stayed at Bara Pani campsite. A calm and peaceful place and only cold wind were blowing… Ultimately, a Stoat came quite close to us without any fear! Thus, we had the perfect opportunity to photograph it.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Oct 2015, Deosai Plateau, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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02.09.2019 update

Northern Pakistan’s autumn feature: meet the movement of livestock in Passu

This is one of the most highlighting feature of the northern Pakistan in autumn; the great movement of the livestock. In October, livestock such as goats, sheep, and yaks that spent the summer in high altitude pastures return to the village all at once.

When I was traveling north on the Karakorum Highway, villagers brought livestock appeared in the backdrop of Passu mountains.

Villagers with their livestock who spent the summers on the highland pastures.

Goats and sheep collected from various houses in the village are gathered together and moved together. Finally, when they arrive at the village, they are divided into their respective homes for winter preparation.

A very healthy herd of livestock passing by, extremely wonderful herd sheep & goats, with signature long and twisted horns directing towards the back.

Villagers moving with their livestock, the village is already near.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Oct 2014, Passu, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Passu
Tag : Travel to Pakistan , Traveling Pakistan , Traveling Pakistan Blog , Indus Caravan , Saiyu Travel Pakistan , Gilgit-Baltistan , Kucchi , Pakistan Travel company , Pakistan Blog , Pakistan tour operator , Pakistan Travel Blog , Pakistan Photography Tour , passu

28.08.2019 update

Religion of Kalash Valley

The Kalash’s religion is considered to be closer to Vedic and Pre-Zoroastrian cultures, even though it has a valuable existence that retains the old form of the Indo-Aryan religion. There is a God of Creator “Dezau” and many gods. There are gods closely related to life and nature, such as “Balumain”, “Sajigor” and “Mahan Deva” which appear at the Chaumos Festival and the goddess “Jestak” who protects the house. The place of prayer is called Dewa, and in each village has small altar at temple of Jestak han and the outskirts of the village.

Temple of Jestak han

Jestak is a goddess who controls the family, housework, marriage and each clan has a temple, not every village.There is a sheep motif at the entrance, Laternendeke ceiling which is typical in Pamir architecture decorations. There is a wood carving on the back of the temple that shows “Balumain” and there is mural painting from the Chaumos Festival.

There are two clans living in Karakal village in Bomboret Valley, and Jastak han has two entrances for each clan in one building.
The picture is Jastak han of Anish village. Designs and decorations inspired by goats and sheep. Laternendeke ceilings of typical architectural styles specific to mountains of Pakistan, Tajikistan and the Wakhan Corridor area.

The Gandao – Wooden statue

A wooden image created to admire the memories of dead person, contributions, and achievements. The production and rituals of this Gandao are very expensive and require a lot of goats, cheese and ghee. Thus, it can only be created by the rich men who are influential. In Bomboret Valley, two sons made two Gandao for their father and uncle, who died more than 10 years ago in Brun village in 2008. (It can still be seen in the Brun village cemetery).
The Gandao is at the center of the ceremonial place. People dance around it and after the ritual is completed, the Gandao is transported to the graveyard.

Cemetery Mandawjaw

The original burial of Kalash was to only put body in a wooden coffin and place in a cemetery. But about 50 years ago, they started practicing burial like Muslims. At present, things that seem to be whitening are old things about 50 years ago. In the past, it was said that if not covering the coffin, it was easy for the soul to free and naturally weatherable.

“Pure” and “Impure” concept

The Kalasha has the strong concept for “Pure” and “Impure” in their life. Therefore, there are many rituals to purify the things that they believe are impure.
The representative one is Bashari. It is a hut where women during menstruation gather and live together. Delivery is also carried out here, and after the delivery it is possible to return to the house where the husband is eagerly waiting after the purification ceremony. There is one in each village, and women in Bashari who are under menstruation should not touch others. For example, to pass the things to other person, She can throw it but cannot hand it over.