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Lolly the Snow Leopard -1

This article is about the Snow Leopard named “Lolly”, who was kept at the entrance of KVO check post, before the Khunjerab National Park entrance in 2015. (All photos of snow leopards in this article are taken while in captivity. Lolly is kept in the Naltar Valley as of May 2019.)

Snow Leopards follow and prey on wild animals such as Ibex in high mountains in northern Pakistan. In winter, descend down to the Karakoram Highway.

About 13 years ago, there was a Snow Leopard cub named “Leo” at the National Park office. Tourists who crossed the border to China used to see Leo and could take a photo with him. But it went to the zoo in the United States.

About seven years ago, villagers found a Snow Leopard cub drowned in the frozen river and saved it. A female Snow Leopard cub, who is estimated to be about six months old, was named “Lolly” and was kept in check post of KVO and Khunjerab National Park near Sost. When we visited, Lolly was in her third year in the cage.

Mr. Farman Razah who saved Lolly gets close to Lolly …. Lolly looks happy and makes sounds like cats “gorogoro” …

Lolly playing with national park staff. She gets to eat 3 kg of meat every day. Mainly of sheep, goats, and yaks.

How long will Lolly stay in this cage? Why it cannot be returned back to the wild?

At that time, the staff of this check post was telling us some ideal plan for Lolly that, when Leo comes back from the United States both Lolly and Leo will be shifted to Naltar Valley and will try for breeding.

Unfortunately, this is Pakistan, it does not go as planned. Lolly has been moved to the Naltar Valley, but Leo did not come back from US.

Finally, this is a photo of Leo when he was small. Photo with Mr. Sultan Gohar in Khunjerab National Park. (Photo courtesy of Khunjerab National Park)

It’s a pity that it’s not wild. Still, it’s something for a big cat’s lover !

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA

Photo of Leo & Sultan Gohar: Credits to Mr. Sultan Gohar – KNP (Khunjerab National Park)
Observation: **Captive condition in cage** Oct 2015, KVO Area
Reference: Mr.Sultan Gohar – KNP,  Mr. Farman Razah – KVO

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Khunjerab National Park
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Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-3

A top view of the Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park. This mud volcano has been recognized as a holy place by Hindus. In fact, a lot of Hindu pilgrimage visit this volcano. However, it was surprising to see rubbish lying around the mud volcano.

The current number of Hindus in Pakistan is said to be about  8 million (according to Pakistan Hindu Council), of which about 94% live in Sindh. There are few Hindus in Balochistan province, but during the pilgrimage season, the Chandragup Mud Volcano and Hindu temples in Hingol National Park are full of pilgrims.

Mud spout on top of the Chandragup mud volcano. The appearance of mud spouting occurs every 1-2 minutes when active, but sometimes it is completely absent.
Sometimes we can see “Offering” by Hindu pilgrimage on the surface of a mud volcano.

It was a bit cloudy during this day, but the sunlight spread on the other mud volcano was looking very gorgeous.

Sunset over the Chandragup Mud Volcano.

Photo & Text : Mariko  SAWADA **Some photos are taken by a drone
Special Thanks: Yoko Kadonaga for photography of spout on top of Chandragup Mud Volcano
Visit: Feb 2019, Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan
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Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-2

“Chandragup Mud Volcano”, located on the coast of Balochistan with a distant view of the Arabian Sea. It is also a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site and a mud volcano that has been known for a long time.

A mud volcano is a landform created by the eruption of mud, water, and gases. It’s called “volcano” but it is not necessarily related to the typical volcanic activity. It only erupts out mud along with methane gas.

The mud volcano in Balochistan was reported to exist in 1840, but the survey began to take place after the earthquake in 1945. At that time, the coast of Balochistan was severely damaged by an earthquake. During this period, the mud volcano also got activated.

The Arabian Plate subducts into the Eurasian Plate in the coastal area of Balochistan. In many cases, volcanic activity is active in such places but in the case of Balochistan, huge “mud volcano area” has emerged.

There are two other mud volcanoes near Chandragup Mud Volcano. This mud volcano was slightly active in November 2018 but has been inactive since then.

An Inactive mud volcano, in the immediate vicinity of Chandragup Mud Volcano. This is an aerial shot which I took through drone, but it looks beautiful from the top of Chandragup Mud Volcano.

Exceptionally looking view of Chandragup Mud Volcano during sunset.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA **all photography taken by a drone
Visit: Nov 2019, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-1

Hingol National Park, located in the southern part of Balochistan. It is spread over a vast area of 6,100 square kilometers and is the largest National park in Pakistan. There are roads and villages inside the national park. For me, I feel it undistinguishable setting as a National park. However, the landscape covering the whole of the National park is astonishing and somewhat out of this earth.

We entered from the gate which leads to the sacred Nani Mandir Hindu temple. What a breathtaking view it is! The village is dotted and engraved in the inexplicable landscape created by the mud volcano.

Some people living beneath the superb view…The mysterious scenery shaped by the mud volcano spread throughout the frame.

Photo & Text : Mariko  SAWADA
Visit: March 2019, Hingol National Park, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan
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Pied Avocet –Soon Valley

A flock of Pied Avocets observed in Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley.
Pied Avocet breeds in Europe and Central Asia and travels to Africa and South Asia in the winter season.
In Pakistan, Pied Avocet’s wintering starts on the Indus river basin, lakes, wetlands, and the Arabian Sea coast. Breeding has also been observed in the lagoons of Balochistan coast.

We could not observe it nearby, but its characteristic feathers; black and white wing and the long beak that had warped, and the gray leg, it was undoubtedly a Pied Avocet.

A person in the background herding camels and Pied Avocet in the foreground… It was a very unique and gorgeous view of nature and people together.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab
Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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Greater Flamingo in sunset – Soon Valley

We visited Uchhali Lake located in Soon Valley, from Islamabad. The trip’s duration was 1 night and 2 days.
Blessed with the weather, we were able to observe the Greater Flamingos in the gorgeous evening golden light.

Northern Shoveler and Greater Flamingo.

Greater Flamingos flying on a sparkling golden lake’s surface.

Greater Flamingos on the lake’s shore.

Greater Flamingos taking off.

A flock of Greater flamingos flying above Uchhali Lake.

As soon as the sunset, the flamingos became a silhouette. We were so excited to photograph these birds until the dark. If you really want to capture the true beauty of flamingos, then the golden hour is the best time.
No doubt, it was a very lovely day at Uchhali Lake.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab
Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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Heritage of LAHORE 

Heritage of LAHORE

On 19th Feb 2019, SUPER MOON DAY … I was in Lahore and was expecting to observe the super moon, but unluckily it was cloudy !
On the other hand, I successfully got permission to fly a drone over the heritage area.

Videography & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit of Lahore : Feb 2019

 

Category : = Video Clip Punjab > ◆ Video Breathtaking Views of Pakistan > ◆ Punjab > - Lahore
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Old Kartarpur – Sikh’s Holy Land, Guru Nanak Mausoleum

Did you know? In Pakistan, there is a mausoleum of Guru Nanak, who was the first Guru and the founder of Sikhism.
Obviously, in Guru-Nanak’s time, there was no such a border and the individuals lived unified.
Following 20 years of traveling around the world, Guru Nanak created the first Sikh community in the current Kartarpur region, where people irrespective of their religion or race, lived together. Guru Nanak lived here in harmony with his family and passed away on September 22, 1539.

Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur, the tomb of Guru Nanak stands where he passed away.

The present building was built in 1925, and since 1947 when India and Pakistan separated, Pakistan’s government has been taking care of it.

The holy place where the divine scriptures of Sikhism are stored.

A Pakistani chef serving a meal at Gurdwara Kartarpura Sahib. By the way, there is only a single Sikh family living in Kartarpur territory.

Lamentably, due to the Radcliffe line drawn by the British during the partition of India in 1947, this Sikh holy place became part of Pakistan territory, which turned a headache for the Sikhs living in India.
It is 4 km from the Indian border across the Ravi river.
They could only worship mausoleum with binoculars from Dera Baba Nanak on the Indian side.

Since 1999, there has been a proposition to make a “Pilgrimage route without visa” for Sikhs, so in November 2018, progress has been made by the talks between Pakistani Prime Minister Imran Khan and an Indian high official, and both the nations are pushing towards acknowledgment.
The coming November 2019 is the 550th anniversary of the birth of Guru Nanak. Before that, it was decided to build the Kartarpur pilgrimage corridor, where Sikhs who were living in India can pilgrimage without a visa.

I visited this place in the middle of March 2019, when the diplomatic tensions between India and Pakistan were at the pinnacle.
The project seems to be steadily advancing forward. Regardless of such political circumstances, the territory around the Guru Nanak Mausoleum has been transformed into a vast construction site for the completion of the “Pilgrimage Corridor”.

The realization of the “pilgrimage corridor” will be what numerous people pray for.

Photo & Text:  Mariko SAWADA

Visit: March 2019, Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur, Kartarpur, Punjab, Pakistan

Category : ◆ Punjab > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
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Arrived at Wagha , Pakistan! crossing the India-Pakistan border

Finally, I arrived at the Wagha. When I passed through the border gate, I saw the stadium of the flag ceremony, with a picturesque portrait of Muhammad Ali Jinnah – founding father of Pakistan.
The time difference between India and Pakistan is 30 minutes.
Therefore, I set the clock accordingly at the border and strolled forward with my suitcase.

Presently, glancing back at the Indian side from Pakistan.
People are crossing the border one after another. It was the time when the relationship between India and Pakistan was deteriorating. Nevertheless, I saw about 50 people intersecting the border in a very short time span.

A portrait of Muhammad Ali Jinnah, founding father of Pakistan. Beneath it in Urdu, “Bab-e-Azadi”, is written which literally means, “The door to Independence”.

By the way, this border is usually walked over, but “India-Pakistan friendship bus”, at that time was running between Delhi and Lahore, which crosses the border without changing the vehicle.
I often get queries regarding the opening time of the border in the evening. Recently, it looks like it is open in the evening, except for the flag ceremony time. Still, it is wise to finish the border crossing by 3 o’clock in winter and 4 o’clock amid summer time.

Go straight out from the stadium of Flag Ceremony and direct towards the immigration office on your right side.
There are also people who own up “money exchange” in this area.
At the immigration office, I had to fill in an A4 sized entry card with a lot of spaces to be filled, unlike the airport’s entry card (As of March 2019).
Pass the luggage through the X-ray machine and exit out of the customs. When I walked towards the Lahore side, I met our Guide who came to receive me from Islamabad.
Now only an hour drive from here to Lahore, which is famous for its unique heritage and beguiling Mughal architecture.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Mar 2019, Wagha Border, Punjab, Pakistan

Category : - Wagha Border > ◆ Punjab > ◇ Pakistan Travel Tip
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Pakistan-India border crossing – Attari (India) to Wagha (Pakistan).

I crossed the border in mid of March 2019, when the tensions between India and Pakistan escalated.
Certainly, the faces of the military personnel on both sides were harsher than before. Though, I felt really peaceful and calm.
Firstly, I took a domestic flight to Amritsar at exactly 8:50 am and arrived after an hour. Thereafter, from the airport to Atari border it took 30 minutes to reach by car.

As Atari approaches, you can see the overly sized Indian and Pakistani flag raising poles in front. At this time, only the Pakistani flag was raised.

Signs – the border mood rising gradually!
Once you get to the border’s facilities. Next step is to complete the entry at the entrance point and go to the immigration and customs building. Photography is prohibited from this point. Then you finish the baggage security check and go towards the Immigration. Here, you only need to submit a passport. Then pass your luggage through the X-Ray machine and fill a custom form. The customs took quite a long time than I expected….

After the departure and custom’s procedures ended, I took a sigh of relief and on a bus started to head towards the Flag ceremony stadium on the border.

Once you arrive at the Flag Ceremony stadium, you can take pictures starting from here. By the way, please be prepared, as it becomes quite expensive when using a porter to carry the luggage.

Lastly, you need to check your passport at the gate and start to walk towards Pakistan.

Pakistan is in front of me! Just a few steps away and I will be standing on the surface of Pakistan.

At the Pakistani border, there are tourists taking pictures. On both the sides of the border, you can witness the true patriotism of the people and the love they share towards their country.

In the end, the border guards generously said, “Welcome to Pakistan! please show me your passport.” It was 12:00 India time, 11:30 Pakistan time.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: March 2019, India-Pakistan border crossing, Attari to Wagha

Category : - Wagha Border > ◇ Pakistan Travel Tip
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