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Himalayan Brown Bear in Autumn – Deosai National Park

A Himalayan Brown Bear which makes the glorious Deosai plateau a well-known and famous place to traverse and explore for wildlife lovers around the world. In fact, the name itself literally translates to, “The land of the Giants”.

The Himalayan Brown Bear is a subspecies of the brown bear that lives in and around the magnificent Himalayas.
Originally, it inhabited widely in Nepal, Tibet, North India, and North Pakistan. However, due to trophy hunting and specifically for the purposes of fur and medicine, it lost its habitat and the population decreased drastically.
It is said that Himalayan brown bear in Bhutan has already been extinct. Moreover. Only a few hundreds population in Northern India and Northern Pakistan remain in the world.

In October, I went to Deosai Plateau for the observation of Himalayan Brown Bear with Deosai National Park staff. During my visit, a staff member explained to me that the bear may come closer to the roadside, as there are comparatively fewer cars and people during this season.
But still it was far and I had to walk quite a distance to approach the bear….

The sun has fallen.
No doubt, it was difficult to walk quickly, considering the fact that we were over 4,000 meters above sea level.

Finally, I came to the perfect distance where I could photograph the gigantic Himalayan Brown Bear.

View of a Himalayan Brown Bear from the backside!
According to the staff of the national park, he was a young male, and he was seamlessly fat enough before the hibernation period.

Himalayan Brown Bears go into hibernation between November and December.

Photo & Text  : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Oct 2015, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Himalayan Brown Bear > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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Snow Leopard returns to the mountain

In late February 2017, a Snow Leopard which attacked livestock in the village of Misgar in Northern Pakistan was captured. She entered the barn and killed goats and sheep. However, she could not get out of the barn.
The villagers understood that the Snow Leopard must be protected at all cost, but they wanted to ask the administration for compensation of their killed livestock. So, it was the third day after being captured, when she was finally released to the mountain.

This snow leopard was a female snow leopard who was being observed with two cubs near the village of Misgar. They did not release at Misgar but they transported to the Khunjerab National Park where she was released.

The story that snow leopard was captured in Misgar became news immediately, and I was trying to go there. Unfortunately, I was informed that a foreigner needs a permit to go there and I had no time for that. So, I gave up and stayed at Deh check post of Khunjerab National Park, where this snow leopard arrived.

To see the moment when this Snow Leopard is released, TV crew and government officials gathered and moved in a row.
It was decided to release her on the slope of the mountain, just after the Deh check post.

Even the cage was opened, snow leopard did not come out immediately. As it didn’t come out, the locals who were around enchanted, “Lolly, Lolly, come!”.
“Lolly” is the Snow Leopard kept at Sost check post, until autumn of 2016.
Now she has been shifted to Naltar valley. But when National Park staff see a female Snow Leopard, they cannot stop calling it “Lolly.”

As she was thirsty, so she immediately started to eat the snow.

She looked forward towards the people, after eating the snow.

And cautiously observed the environment around her.

She came out slowly from the cage. At this moment, applause arose from the local people standing there.

Finally, now she is freely walking into the wild.

After three days of restraint, her fur was disordered, and the blood of the livestock was still spread on her body.

She stopped to eat the snow.

The Snow Leopard went into the bush but still stared at us.

After a while, it started climbing the mountain again and sat down again.
Although this is a released Snow Leopard, it was first time to see a wild Snow Leopard in Pakistan for me.

We left the place hoping that this snow leopard could safely return to the two cubs in Misgar.
The next day, the staff went to see where the snow leopard was last sighted, but it was not there no more.

Fortunately, three days after the release, there was a message from the National Park staff that this snow leopard was witnessed in Misgar with two cubs.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Feb 2017, Khunjerab National Park, Gilgit -Baltistan
Special Thanks : Mr. Sultan Gohar -KNP(Khunjerab National Park), Mr. Farman Razah – KVO ( Khunjerab Villager Organization), Wildlife Department of Pakistan

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PS: This female snow leopard again attacked the livestock pens and was killed by the villagers.

Category : - Snow Leopard > - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Khunjerab National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > ◇ Conservation of Wildlife, Nature
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Buzi Pass – Makran Coastal Highway

While driving on the Makran Coastal Highway towards Ormara, one has to cross through the stupendous Buzi Pass.
Indeed, the drive itself on the Makran Coastal Highway is very scenic and beautiful. Similarly, climbing up top to the Buzi Pass is also a breathtaking experience.

It is a rock formation named, “Princess of Hope” at the starting point of Buzi pass. As for me, I was perplexed when I first saw it. Nevertheless, the Pakistani people were stopping by and taking photos.

“Princess of Hope” is truly a famous landmark. You will find a replica of this at the so-called “Zero Point” junction of Makran Coastal Highway and Uthal Road. Also, there are other rock formation named such as “Sphinx of Balochistan”, “Palace” and more.

Vehicle traveling on the endless road through astounding landscapes of Balochistan.

From the top of the Buzi Pass, you will see the Arabian Sea, huge eroded land, canyon extending from the coast; a geological wonderland.

Three Bikers from our “Pakistan Bikers Balochistan tour” are passing.
Crossing Buzi Pass is definitely one of the highlights of the Makran Coastal Highway drive, one must experience in their lifetime.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Feb 2019, Buzi Pass, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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Nanga Parbat (8,126m) from the Deosai Plateau

Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world. It is a mountain also known as, “The Killer Mountain”, because many climbers died on their way to the summit, during the last century.

There are several famous places from where you can have a breathtaking view of Nanga Parbat. Such as Fairy Meadows, Herrligkoffer Base Camp, that overlooks the Himalaya’s largest ice wall, “Rupal Wall”, with the differences of 4,500 meters.

Nevertheless, Nanga Parbat from the Deosai Plateau side is also admirable!

We entered “Deosai National Park” from the Chilam gate.
Brace yourself. This is just a view from the entrance of “Deosai Plateau”.

You can see this splendid sight just from the roadway!

Soon you will see picturesque Sheosar Lake with reflecting blue water… It is at an altitude of 4,140m.
From here you can see Nanga Parbat, against the backdrop of the lake, in the sky.

We drove further to Kala Pani from Sheosar Lake. Nanga Parbat can be seen from the heart of Deosai plateau.

We visited this place in early October. The temperature of the camp at night dropped to below freezing, but I was able to see the beautiful Nanga Parbat, blessed with the fine autumn weather.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Oct 2015, Deosai Plateau, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan > - Nanga Parbat / Himalaya Range
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Great Wall of Sindh – Rani Kot Fort

Rani Kot Fort, also known as, “The Great Wall of Sindh”. It is also listed in UNESCO’s world heritage tentative list since 1993.

The wall is 35 kilometers long. The history of the construction somehow is not yet clear. Moreover, it is believed that the original site was rebuilt at the very beginning of the 19th century.

The Great Wall extends in 3 directions. I did not walk up to the wall because there wasn’t much time to visit, and it was really hot during the daytime. I took this aerial shot using a drone.

On the way back from “The Great Wall of Sindh”, I met a family of nomads with a camel and some other animals. All in all, It was really a beautiful sight to witness the lovely people, and the Great Wall of Sindh, due to its vastness still has some hidden mysteries yet to be explored.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Oct 2018, Rani Kot Fort, Sindh

Category : - Monument / Heritage of Sindh > ◆ Sindh > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
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Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-3

A top view of the Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park. This mud volcano has been recognized as a holy place by Hindus. In fact, a lot of Hindu pilgrimage visit this volcano. However, it was surprising to see rubbish lying around the mud volcano.

The current number of Hindus in Pakistan is said to be about  8 million (according to Pakistan Hindu Council), of which about 94% live in Sindh. There are few Hindus in Balochistan province, but during the pilgrimage season, the Chandragup Mud Volcano and Hindu temples in Hingol National Park are full of pilgrims.

Mud spout on top of the Chandragup mud volcano. The appearance of mud spouting occurs every 1-2 minutes when active, but sometimes it is completely absent.
Sometimes we can see “Offering” by Hindu pilgrimage on the surface of a mud volcano.

It was a bit cloudy during this day, but the sunlight spread on the other mud volcano was looking very gorgeous.

Sunset over the Chandragup Mud Volcano.

Photo & Text : Mariko  SAWADA **Some photos are taken by a drone
Special Thanks: Yoko Kadonaga for photography of spout on top of Chandragup Mud Volcano
Visit: Feb 2019, Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan
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Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-2

“Chandragup Mud Volcano”, located on the coast of Balochistan with a distant view of the Arabian Sea. It is also a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site and a mud volcano that has been known for a long time.

A mud volcano is a landform created by the eruption of mud, water, and gases. It’s called “volcano” but it is not necessarily related to the typical volcanic activity. It only erupts out mud along with methane gas.

The mud volcano in Balochistan was reported to exist in 1840, but the survey began to take place after the earthquake in 1945. At that time, the coast of Balochistan was severely damaged by an earthquake. During this period, the mud volcano also got activated.

The Arabian Plate subducts into the Eurasian Plate in the coastal area of Balochistan. In many cases, volcanic activity is active in such places but in the case of Balochistan, huge “mud volcano area” has emerged.

There are two other mud volcanoes near Chandragup Mud Volcano. This mud volcano was slightly active in November 2018 but has been inactive since then.

An Inactive mud volcano, in the immediate vicinity of Chandragup Mud Volcano. This is an aerial shot which I took through drone, but it looks beautiful from the top of Chandragup Mud Volcano.

Exceptionally looking view of Chandragup Mud Volcano during sunset.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA **all photography taken by a drone
Visit: Nov 2019, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-1

Hingol National Park, located in the southern part of Balochistan. It is spread over a vast area of 6,100 square kilometers and is the largest National park in Pakistan. There are roads and villages inside the national park. For me, I feel it undistinguishable setting as a National park. However, the landscape covering the whole of the National park is astonishing and somewhat out of this earth.

We entered from the gate which leads to the sacred Nani Mandir Hindu temple. What a breathtaking view it is! The village is dotted and engraved in the inexplicable landscape created by the mud volcano.

Some people living beneath the superb view…The mysterious scenery shaped by the mud volcano spread throughout the frame.

Photo & Text : Mariko  SAWADA
Visit: March 2019, Hingol National Park, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan
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Pied Avocet –Soon Valley

A flock of Pied Avocets observed in Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley.
Pied Avocet breeds in Europe and Central Asia and travels to Africa and South Asia in the winter season.
In Pakistan, Pied Avocet’s wintering starts on the Indus river basin, lakes, wetlands, and the Arabian Sea coast. Breeding has also been observed in the lagoons of Balochistan coast.

We could not observe it nearby, but its characteristic feathers; black and white wing and the long beak that had warped, and the gray leg, it was undoubtedly a Pied Avocet.

A person in the background herding camels and Pied Avocet in the foreground… It was a very unique and gorgeous view of nature and people together.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab
Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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Greater Flamingo in sunset – Soon Valley

We visited Uchhali Lake located in Soon Valley, from Islamabad. The trip’s duration was 1 night and 2 days.
Blessed with the weather, we were able to observe the Greater Flamingos in the gorgeous evening golden light.

Northern Shoveler and Greater Flamingo.

Greater Flamingos flying on a sparkling golden lake’s surface.

Greater Flamingos on the lake’s shore.

Greater Flamingos taking off.

A flock of Greater flamingos flying above Uchhali Lake.

As soon as the sunset, the flamingos became a silhouette. We were so excited to photograph these birds until the dark. If you really want to capture the true beauty of flamingos, then the golden hour is the best time.
No doubt, it was a very lovely day at Uchhali Lake.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab
Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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