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28.11.2024 update

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 1

The following is a photo report on a 2024 season excursion to the Baltoro Glacier—titled “Over the Baltoro Glacier to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C.“—carried out by Teppei Kamitani, a guide from Japan who has visited and photographed the glacier many times.

The first part of the blog traces and documents (with photos) the first half of the trek in the following order: [Askole → Jhora → Skam Tsok → Paiju → Khoburtse → Urdukas].

My first step was to take a domestic flight from Islamabad to the town of Skardu, the gateway for trekkers in the area. Weather permitting, it’s possible to get a spectacular view of many mountains—including Nanga Parbat—during the flight, but this time it was cloudy and we could not see it. However, had the flight been cancelled, it would have taken two days to travel there on land, so we considered ourselves lucky that we were able to arrive safely.

Town of Skardu, the gateway to trekkers

The day after arrival at Skardu was also a backup day in case of flight cancellations, as well as for obtaining permits and other bureaucratic formalities. During this time, it was possible to head out to the Deosai Plateau to acclimatize oneself to the altitude of 4,200 m.

The following day, we headed to Askole, the starting point of the trek. The route took us through the Shigar Valley, passing the Sarfaranga Cold Desert and viewpoints overlooking the valley. The road became steeper and steeper as we approached Ascole, with more ups and downs along the riverside slopes.

Heading towards Askole by ４WD

Day 1: Askole-Korophong-Jhola

At long last, the trek began from the lush green village of Askole. On the way, we completed the various formalities at the office in Testay Village, the last inhabited settlement in this vicinity. Beyond this point, a vast, uninhabited path stretched out before us.

Starts in the lush green village of Askole
Walking through desolate land

About four and a half hours after leaving Askole, we had lunch at Korophong, a camp in the end moraine of the Biafo Glacier, which flows from the Latok Mountains. We continued walking along the Braldu River and Jhola Camp came into view on the other side of the Domordo River. Here we crossed the recently opened Snow Leopard Bridge to reach the new Jola Camp.

Lunch at Korophong inside the Biafo Glacier
New Jhora Camp, located along the riverbank

Day 2: Jhola to Skam Tsok

The trail follows the Braldu River with gentle ups and downs, the second half of the day walking along the cliffs. When Skam Tsok comes into view in the distance, we saw Broad Peak (8,051m), the 12th highest peak in the world.

Broad Peak(8,051m) can be seen in the distance

We arrived in Skam Tsok at 11:20, taking about four and a half hours. After lunch, we relaxed with a tea break to keep our spirits up.

Skam Tsok camp and the big rainbow in the sky

Day 3: Skam Tsok to Paiju

This was the day of the half-day walk to Paiju, the camp in front of the glacier. Two and a half hours after we’d passed the gentle ups and downs from Skam Tsok, the Baltoro Glacier began to come into view. The iconic mountains of the Baltoro Glacier, such as Trango Castle and Cathedral, were also visible.

We continued up and down the river bank path
We crossed the log bridge carefully
The Baltoro Glacier finally came into view

The second half of the route followed a traverse path to reach Paiju Camp (3,450m), which was covered with poplar trees. The clean mountain water jabbered around us, and even gave us the opportunity to wash our clothes. We put chairs in front of our tent and had ourselves a relaxing afternoon. We were refreshed for the trek up the Baltoro Glacier…

Before Paiju, the trail enters the cliff path again, with more ups and downs
The campsite at Paiju was delightfully well-shaded. Once up on the glacier, there would be no shade at all

Day 4: Paiju to Khoburtse

At long last, this was the day we’d walk to the Baltoro Glacier—though it would end up being a long one. We walked to the Baltoro Glacier and reached the glacier tongue in ninety minutes.

Finally, the edge of the Baltoro Glacier tongue

There was a bit of sunshine at first, but clouds started to gather from the lower part of the Pailu and it began to rain. We followed the glacier’s outlet, gradually making our way up the mountainside, and had lunch at Liligo. From here, wearing helmets, we crossed a slope where there was a risk of landslides. What awaited us at the end, on the opposite bank of the glacier river, was the camp of Khoburtse (3,940m)!

Thanks to this small wooden bridge, we didn’t have to wade across the river. We crossed the bridge on our way to the Khoburtse campsite
The North Star, Trango Castle, Biale, and the Cathedral …. night photography at Khoburtse Camp site

Days 5 & 6: Khoburtse to Urdukas

We spent four hours trekking to Urdukas (4,050m). The plan for today was not to enter the Baltoro Glacier, but to cross two unnamed glaciers on its tributaries. As we made our way up the gently sloping upper reaches of the glacier, there was a point where we could see Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, III and IV, but this time they were obscured by clouds.

Morning in Khoburtse. The rocky peak in the foreground is Trango Castle (5753m)
We didn’t enter the Bartolo Glacier, but traversed the side slopes. There was a lot of up and down

Urdukas means “broken boulder,” so it was fitting that there were actually boulders scattered around the campsite. The Baltoro Glacier lay directly in front, and beyond that, the Trango mountain range, the Cathedral, the Biale Glacier flowing down from Biale, and other famous peaks and glaciers could be seen in a panoramic view.

Urdukas camp site where we stay for two nights, is a high vantage point overlooking the Baltoro Glacier.
The Baltoro Glacier and rock peaks as seen from the rock terrace of Urdus camp
The Baltoro Glacier and the famous mountain range in the direction we are heading to

This trip would not have been possible without the support of the local staff.
We stayed at the Urdukas camp, which had running water, for two nights, including a rest day. I think this break probably really helped our guides refresh mentally as well. The local staff who supported the trip also took a break and sang along, following Ali’s lead.

Ali led the porters in singing

 

To be continued in the second half…

 

Photo & text : Teppei Kamitani

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024 Baltoro Galcier- K2B.C.

 

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K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 1) Skardu to Paiju

K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 2) Paiju to Khoburtse

K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 3) Khoburtse to Urdukas

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 4) Urdukas to GoreⅡ

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 5) GoreⅡ to Concordia

Staying in Concordia, surrounded by the high Peaks of the Karakorum: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Mountain Range

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Category : - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan
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08.04.2024 update

Butkara I – Gandhara Site of the Swat Valley

Butkara I is an archaeological site in the Swat Valley, which was one of the centers of Gandhara. It is known for its main stupa, which dates back to the 3rd century B.C. to King Ashoka of the Maurya Empire, and for the 272 votive stupas that surround it. Butkara I has not only a group of stupas, but also a monastery and other buildings—though that part has not yet been excavated, and houses have already been built on top of it.

The site was excavated between 1956 and 1962 by the Italian Archaeological Mission and the Department of Archaeology of the Government of Pakistan. The site dates back to the 3rd century B.C. during the Maurya Empire and is believed to have been in use until around the 11th century A.D.

The main stupa, with its circular Sanchi-shaped base, was enlarged five times over the centuries, with the oldest part, a 3rd century B.C. Maurya Empire stupa. Part of the excavation site reveals the process of its expansion.

Around the main stupa, there is a path that devotees walked along to the right. The visitors must have worshipped not only the stupa but also the reliefs carved on the drum.

The paths around the stupa are covered with paving stones, and some of them still have glass decorations.

This seated Buddha relief was excavated from a layer containing coins of Azes II of the Indo-Scythians, dated 35-12 B.C., so the relief is considered to date to the late 1st century B.C. or early posterior AD. Conservative archaeologists believe it dates to the 1st or 2nd century AD, since the Buddha image is believed to have appeared later. The origin of the Buddha image has always been one of the major themes of Gandhara art. The date of the Buddha image’s appearance continues to be debated.

Let’s take a look at the votive stupa surrounding the main stupa. This votive stupa is a small stupa-shaped structure built around the main stupa. It is thought to have been donated by the royalty and nobility of the time. Votive stupas were also objects of worship at that time.

This is part of the relief on the square base of the votive stupa. This figure may be a depiction of the Great Departure from the life of the Buddha, in which the beloved horse Kanthaka is licking Siddhartha’s feet and farewells him. This votive stupa may have been decorated with motifs favored by the donor.

Relief of grapes on a votive stupa

The head of a tiger depicted in relief. In the lower right is a delicately carved Corinthian capital.

Tigers are believed to have become extinct in Pakistan around 1900. At that time, Bengal tigers must have roamed the rich Swat forests.

Relief of a person holding a bowl in a memorial service.

Relief of a votive stupa, Triratna (the Three Jewels). It depicts the three chakras which represent the Dharma, the Buddha, and the Sangha, as objects of worship.

The motif is not known due to the large number of missing parts. The material used for the sculpture is generally green phyllite.

Here are some of the Butkara I artifacts on display at the Swat Museum. I picked out some items that are unique to Swat.

Artifacts from Butkara I: A panel showing a scene from the life of Buddha: Siddhartha Going to School. This scene in Gandhara depicts him going to school riding on a sheep. Sometimes he rides directly on the sheep, and sometimes he rides in a sheep-led cart. So far, no theories seem to explain the reason for this.

Artifact from Butkara I: A female figure of an aristocrat of the time. She is wearing a very gorgeous hair ornament, showing the Swat customs of the time.

Artifact from Butkara I: Likewise, a statue that seems to represent an aristocratic woman of the time. The costume and decoration of the woman holding a lotus flower in one hand is beautifully depicted.

Artifact from Butkara I: This relief used to be at the site but was moved to the Swat Museum. In the scene of Siddhartha’s supposed “Engagement,” the prince Siddhartha stands in the center, the rightmost figure is a shy Yashodhara, and beside him is the priest that introduces Yashodhara. To the left of Siddhartha is a kneeling Mara and around her are Mara’s three daughters. Mara is depicted as a symbol of worldliness and a preventer of Siddhartha’s enlightenment.

Corinthian capital. It depicts a woman, possibly the donor, with acanthus leaves.

The Swat Museum has rooms for exhibiting artifacts from Barikot, the Saidu Sharif Stupa, and Butkara I. Please take your time to visit the museum.

↓↓ Butkara – Gandhara site of Pakistan

Butkara I – Although now surrounded by residential areas, a record of a visit by the Chinese monk Song Yun in AD 520 describes the very ornate Butkara Stupa complex.

 

Image & text: Mariko SAWADA

References: The Life of Buddha, by Isao Kurita, etc.

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Category : = Video Clip KPK > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > - Swat
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17.11.2023 update

Hunza, “Shangri-la” surrounded by apricot blossoms

In late March, the Hunza Valley is blanketed in pale pink apricot blossoms. The fields are green with wheat sprouts. After the independence of India and Pakistan in 1947, the Hunza was ruled by a dynasty until 1974. The valley is inhabited by the people of Brusho, who speak Brushaski.

Hunza is touted as the “Shangri-la” and is known as the “Village of Longevity.” This beauty and the life of this village supported by fruit trees, may be the “secret of longevity” that it is famous for.

Burushaski, the language spoken by the people of Brusho, is an “isolated language” that has not been found to be associated with any other language. It is said that they are the descendants of language groups that existed in this area before the arrival of the Indo-Aryan people. Burushashki-speakers also live in the Hunza Valley, the Nagar Valley across the Hunza River, the Yasin Valley leading to the Wakhan Corridor, and the Ishkoman Valley.

This is a view of the center of Baltit village. In the past, large buildings were limited to the surrounding of the Baltit Fort, which was the castle of the feudal lord, and the Darbar Hotel, but now large buildings (hotels) are becoming more prominent.

Rakaposhi peak (7,788m) seen from Baltit Village. It is in a mountain in the Nagar Valley on the opposite bank of the Hunza River and is a famous peak that can be viewed from everywhere in Hunza.

Also Diran Peak (7,266m) as seen from Baltit Village.

I walked between Altit Village and Duiker Hill, where the flowering apricots bloom.

The apricots in full bloom. You can see just how important the apricot trees are in the lives of the villagers, the fruit, its seeds and the oil taken from the seeds.

Altit Village was covered with many apricot trees. You can meet the beautiful villagers while walking around the village. The people of Hunza  are white in appearance and many of them have light hair.

I met such lovely children this day.

For lunch that day, we had local Hunza cuisine prepared at  Amin’s house in Baltit Village.

Photographer Toshiki Nakanishi had just come to Hunza for a phototour, where he was taking pictures of the local cuisine as it was being made.

Here they were preparing Dowdo soup, a dish representative of Hunza.

They made such a delicious cheese chapatti (called Burus Sapik in Burushaski). Hunza cheese, mint, tomato, green onion, onion and fruit oil wrapped in wheat chapatti. It is very healthy, and it is recommended for vegetarians who come to Pakistan and have trouble finding things to eat.

Today’s lunch. Local cuisine with plenty of fruit oil and Hunza’s local wine are so wonderful.

 

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Visit: March 2023, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Hunza Valley
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17.07.2023 update

Souvenir from Hunza

Surrounded by the 7,000m-class high peaks of Karakorum, this Hunza village is famous for the amazing pink apricot flowers that bloom all over the valley.

The main street of Karimabad, the center of Hunza, which is lined with stalls selling local products. It’s not very big, but it’s a place where you can go casually and enjoy a stroll while sightseeing.

Bazaar at Karimabad

First of all, I will introduce dried fruits and nuts, which are the specialties of Hunza.

In Hunza, where apricots and other fruits thrive, the seeds are removed immediately after they are harvested. The fruits are then preserved by being dried in the sun, then sold in the market. The dried apricots are browner in color and have a firmer texture than common ones you might see in other places, but this is just proof that there are no additives in them. The more you chew the dried fruit, the more the gorgeous apricot flavor fills your mouth, and the taste becomes addictive.

The fresh nuts that are the most famous are walnuts, almonds, and apricot seeds. Apricot seeds look a lot like almonds at first glance. But you can enjoy that unique scent of the apricot that is familiar with almond tofu (the name is also confusing but it is because the two nuts are so similar). Although it has a slightly bitter taste, it is said to have the effect of boosting the immune system.

In addition, I also recommend you try the cherries, mulberries, and dried pears, as they are hard to find anywhere else.

Dried fruits sold at a souvenir shop

At the bazaar, souvenirs of wooden products are also conspicuous. Apricot trees and walnut trees are also suitable for woodwork, so there are ornaments, accessory cases, and tableware made from these woods.

A spoon made of apricot and walnut wood. Each piece is handmade by an artist every day.

Intricately carved tissue box

Handicrafts with traditional Hunza embroidery are also popular souvenirs. Bright embroidery is applied to wool bags, slippers and hats.

Pouches
Slipper

In addition, northern Pakistan around Hunza is the origin of many natural gemstones. Specialty stores sell colorful natural stones such as crystal, aquamarine, topaz, garnet and black tourmaline; and small rough stones can be obtained at relatively low prices.

Searching for your favorite stone or a birthstone will also make a special souvenir.

Aquamarine stone

When you are wanting to take a quick break while exploring the bazaar, I recommend stopping by Cafe De Hunza.

Here, you can enjoy the famous walnut cake made with plenty of locally produced walnuts.

The cake goes very well with coffee. You can also take the cake home.

A famous cake filled to the max with caramel-wrapped walnuts

Cafe De Hunza also sold apricot oil for souvenirs.

It has a nourishing effect for sore throat, and it is a versatile oil that can also be used for skin care, as it has a very smooth application.

Apricot seed oil

Dried fruits, woodwork, nuts, oil and apricots are used in everything by the locals. For the people of Hunza, apricots are essential and a very important part of their lives.

There are many things that I haven’t introduced yet, but when you visit Hunza, why don’t you take a walk around the bazaar and look for the Apricot Blossom Spring Valley souvenirs that are unique to this beautiful place?

 

Photo ＆Text : Madoka Nishioka

Visit : March 2023, Karimabad, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Hunza Valley
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19.06.2023 update

Rock Carvings of Shatial, – Silk Road heritage – soon to be submerged in the Indus river dam

This blog is documenting the precious Silk Road heritage site, the ‘Indus rock carvings’, which will be lost forever in a few years when two dams on the Indus River are completed.

 

Stunning stupa depictions and inscriptions, “rock carvings of Shatial”

Shatial Rock Carvings, on a slope slightly off the Karakoram Highway down to the Indus River, located on the south bank of the Indus, between the Darel Valley to the east and the Tangir Valley to the west, were very important site for travelers, trade caravans and pilgrims on the Silk Road.

The rock carving ranges from those considered pre-Buddhist to those from the Gandhara heyday and post-Gandhara eras.

Firstly, the picture below shows the most famous rock carving in Shatial site. This rock art is impactful enough to elicit “wow!” response even from an ordinary tourist.

In the center of the rock is a large, delicately depicted stupa with many bells. On the left is a depiction of the “Sibi Jataka” and on the right is a votive stupa.

On the left side of the rock, the name of the stupa’s builder is inscribed in Kharoshthi script (or Gāndhārī, ancient Indo-Iranian script), which dates back to the 5th century.
Between the stupa and the votive stupa the names of people who lived back then (perhaps, some dignitaries) are inscribed in Brahmi and Sogdian script.

Two devotees dressed in Central Asian-style costumes approach the main stupa from three stepping stones. This staircase leads to a plinth decorated with a ‘four-stepped design’. Two pillars support the beam and the domed stupa. Bells are also attached to the beam, stupa and niche.
The stupa is topped by a series of umbrellas, from the top most of which hang down banners on either side like an arch. Small bells are also attached to the umbrellas, making this rock engraving different and novel from the other stupas.

The votive stupa to the right of the main stupa has four steps leading up to a high base, depicting a triangular stupa with a series of umbrellas above it and flags billowing and fluttering. It is a different style of depiction from the main stupa.

This figure on the left shows the ‘Sibi Jataka’.

 

About Sibi Jataka

（The Jataka is the stories of former lives of the Buddha ）

There was a kind-hearted king named King Sibi.
A dove chased by a falcon flew to King Sibi and asked for help.

The falcon came to King Sibi and said, “I have not eaten for many days and if I do not eat the dove, I will die from starvation. Whose life do you consider more important, the dove’s or mine?”

So King Sibi thought that the falcon’s life is also important, so he cut off a piece of meat from his own leg, weighing the same as the dove, and placed it on the balance. But the dove was heavier, so he cut off the flesh again and placed it on the balance, but the weights were not equal.

King Sibi thought deeply and put his own body on the balance, and it balanced. The king said to the hawk, “Please eat me and get well”.
King Sibi tried to save the dove’s life by giving his own life to the falcon.

The falcon, knowing King Sibi’s heart, appeared to him in the form of Indra God and he saluted King Sibi’s action by saying, “You will become a Buddha in the future”.

 

In this rock carving, the Buddha sits in a cave, holding a ‘dove’ in his hand. The person depicted on the right holds a balance. The object on the balance is the flesh of King Sibi, which was cut off to save the dove’s life.
Below the Buddha holding the dove, devotees are depicted on both sides.

The above description is just one of many stories behind carvings in the main stupa. Shatial site has many other unique, valuable iconographies.

This is the carving on the rock opposite the main stupa, “Yantra”, a holy set of symbols at the center to the right, and “Labyrinth” on the bottom left.

　

Above and below are Sogdian tamga, emblems used by ancient Eurasian sedentary and nomadic tribes and their influenced cultures, represented in rock carving.

Sogdian Tamga

It’s difficult to see, but can you see the person holding what looks like a cup?

This is a rock carving of Sogdian performing a ritual in front of an altar, most probably. Probably a fire worship ritual?

 

 

 

 

 

Other animal rock carvings are depicted by people who walked the Silk Road. The rock carvings in the upper Indus, Gilgit and Hunza river basins are mainly ibex wild goat, with snow leopards and markhors goats, but here we see camels and elephants depicted.

The elephant figures remind us of the proximity to India. Apart from the picture below, there were several rock carvings that appeared to be camels and elephants, but only those that more or less certain are shown here.

Petroglyph of Bactrian Camel
Petroglyph of Goose
Petroglyph of Bactrian Camel

There is always something new to discover at the Shatial site.

By the way, the village seen from the rock carving site is full of dwellings that have been built at a rapid pace to get compensation for the submerged dwellings caused by the dam. The environment around the ancient rock carving has changed considerably.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

*About the article: the article is based on an old book. I wonder if other views and explanations exist. I would be very happy if you could let me know so that I can study it.

Reference :”Huma records on Karakoeum Highway”, ” The Indus, cradle and crossroad of civilizations”

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Category : ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > - Indus river bank > ◇ Rock carvings / Petroglyph > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
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23.05.2023 update

Skardu – Indus Valley in Spring

You will be amazed by the scenery as you arrive in Skardu on a domestic flight; almost all tourists take photos as soon as they arrive. The airport is on a desert plain, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, on the banks of the Indus River.

Skardu’s airport is on an high-altitude desert of 2,230m. Last year, it was promoted to “International Airport.” Recently, the operation rate of the Skardu route has improved, and it is now flying not only from Islamabad, but also from Karachi and Lahore in summer. However, in case of flight cancellation, there is no land route from Karachi. It is still safer for foreign tourists to choose flights from Islamabad instead.

Video of Islamabad – Skardu flight with the Nanga Parbat right at the front!

It takes about 20 minutes from the airport to the town of Skardu. Inhabited by the Balti people, Skardu means ‘land between two high places’ in the Balti language. It was once part of Tibet and was also a trading center to Kashmir. It later became Islamized, and after the independence of India and Pakistan in 1947, it went through three wars and in the end, it belonged to Pakistan.

March 23rd, when I arrived, was Pakistan Day. On March 22, 1940, Muhammad Ali Jinnah proposed the founding of Pakistan at a meeting of the All-India Muslim League, and on the following day, on the 23rd, the founding of the country was unanimously resolved. It is an important Pakistani Memorial Day, just like Independence Day.
There must have been an event at school, as there were children walking down the street with national flags in their hands.

Skardu’s Bazaar, a store that sells beans and grains.

A villager who came to buy goods from Kowardo village in the suburbs of Skardu. Their face is a bit Tibetan, unlike the Hunza and Punjab regions.
Balti men are known to be strong and are active in the K2 base camp trek and climbing in the summer.

A shop in the bazaar also had pink rock salt that was mined in the “Salt Range” from the Punjab region. There are various uses for it like salt licks for livestock, and smaller blocks are used when drinking “namkheen chai” (salty chai).
About Himalayan Salt: The Salt Range

At the Skardu vegetable market, a shipment of vegetables and fruits from the Punjab region arrived.

On this day, the apricots of Skardu were almost in full bloom

The Indus River seen from Hussain Abad Village in Skardu Valley. At this time of year, the Indus River is not mixed with melted glacier water and has a beautiful blue color.
The Indus River flows from Ladakh, India. 93% of the 3,180km (1,976 miles) long Indus River flows through Pakistan. After leaving the northern mountainous region, it flows across Pakistan into the Arabian Sea.

Skardu Valley looking back from the road from Skardu to Gilgit. This large canyon, 10 km wide and 40 km long (6.2 mi wide x 24.9 mi long), is said to have been formed by the glaciers of the Indus and Shigar Rivers between 3.2 million years ago and the Holocene period.

I took one last look before entering “Skardu Road,” which connects Karakorum Highway and Skardu.

The valley of Skardu is a very beautiful place with apricot blossoms in the spring, greenery in the summer and golden poplars in autumn.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit : March 2023, Skardu, Gilgiti-Baltistan

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Indus river bank > - Skardu Valley
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09.05.2023 update

Shigar Valley in the Early Spring

Just after Nowruz (March 21), I visited the Shigar Valley. Nowruz is the Iranian New Year, but it is also celebrated in northern Pakistan. In Persian, “Now” means “new”, “Ruz” means “day”, and it falls on the vernal equinox. On this day, they start working in the fields and start new things.

On the domestic flight from Islamabad to Skardu, there were many elderly people heading to Skardu. They usually will spend the harsh winter in Islamabad and Karachi, where their sons and grandchildren live, and later return to their villages around Nowruz. The flight was full of villagers.

Shigar Village seen from the entrance of the valleyThe Shigar Valley is called the gateway to ‘Karakoram,’ and this ‘Shigar Road’ continues to the end of the motorway, Askole. Trekking and mountaineering start from Askole, walking on the Baltoro Glacier to K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum base camp. This is the path most people who aim for K2 take. The Shigar River is fed by the Braldu River, which flows from the Baltoro and Biafo Glaciers.

Apricot blossoms

The time I visited was when the apricot flowers were in full bloom. It can only be in “full bloom” for 1-2 days. Even so, there are differences in how the apricot blossoms bloom depending on the altitude, the amount of sunlight, and the amount of water, so I was able to see many stages of the apricot blossoms.

Shigar Village is the largest village in Shigar valley. Shigar Fort, managed by the Serena Hotel chain, is a lovely hotel that has been renovated from an old feudal lord’s castle. I walked around the hotel, and they are the village’s children.

Shigar Village
Shigar village

Compared to the past, Shigar Village has developed more than the image of the rustic village, and in the center, there are more cars now. But just taking a stroll around the village, you can enjoy the scenery and have some memorable encounters with the villagers.

Recently, more and more people are going to the Hashupi Fruit Garden, which is located further inside Shigar Village. The views of the valley and villages from Shigar Village to Hashupi Village are very beautiful. The scenery of the village also continues to be rustic.

Time spent with the children of the village
Photoshoot of the apricot blossoms

In the early morning, head to the Sarfranga cold dessert.

The Sarfranga Cold Desert lies on the bank of the Indus River, at the entrance to the Shigar Valley. It is a superb view point where you can see the sand dunes with the snowy mountains in the background.

Hussainbad Village seen from the Sarfranga sand dunes
The snowy mountains of Karakorum seen from the sand dunes

And after the morning shoot, I had a picnic breakfast, and the chai was the best!

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit : March 2023, Shigar Valley, Skardu, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Skardu Valley > - Shigar Valley
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19.04.2023 update

Lolly, the Snow Leopard 2023

I visited “Lolly, the Snow Leopard” for the first time in a long time. The first time I saw her was in 2015, at the KVO check post in the border town of Sost, and at that time, she was 3 years old, being raised by people. Afterwards, Lolly was moved to Naltar Valley, where the Pakistan Army facilities are located.

So it must be that she is over 10 years old now?

Seeing Lolly through the bushes. She is so beautiful. But, she seems to be “a bit chubbier” than a wild snow leopard.

I waited for her to move away from the fence and go to a place where I could get some nature in the background of the photo. Here, Lolly was sitting in her favorite spot. On the day I visited, there was only one other local photographer there.

One of Lolly’s favorite sitting spots.

Oh, maybe she’s gonna make a move?

You can hear the rapid fire of camera shutters clicking in the moment she makes a move.

The thick tail of a snow leopard. This tail helps them balance when hunting on steep slopes and cliffs.

The bottom of her foot, covered with fur to protect it from the cold, and with a large ground surface area, making it easier to walk on snowy surfaces.
Pads on her feet…for the people who love them, we just can’t get enough of these ‘toe beans’!

The back is also nice to see, her ears, the nape of the neck…If you are watching a wild snow leopard, you can hardly get a view of them from this angle. Lolly was very cooperative this day, and during our stay of about 2.5 hrs, we could see her move to her ‘favorite spots’ and finally settle down right beside me.

Lolly was a very close distance (I could have reached out and felt her fluffy fur). I could hear her making growling noises.
Even though she is raised in captivity, for people who love snow leopards, to be able to be at this proximity with one, this is an interesting place where you can observe her to your heart’s content.

 

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jan 2023, Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Naltar Valley
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29.03.2023 update

In Serch of Punjab Urial – Kalabagh Private Game Reserve

In January, we went on a search of the Punjab Urial, an endemic species of Pakistan, at the Kalabagh Private Game Reserve in the Java Mountains of the Punjab Plain.

The Kalabagh Private Game Reserve is a wildlife sanctuary for hunting, but in order to increase the number of animals for trophy hunting quota, the population needs to be allowed to grow. The rangers patrol with guns around the area to stop poachers, so the sanctuary is brimming with wild animals.

The Urial is an artiodactyl mammal of the family Bovidae. It is wild species of sheep, so they have large, arching horns and long beards on their necks. They live in the mountainous areas from South Asia to Central Asia. The Urial inhabiting the Punjab region of Pakistan were given the same protections as the Ladakh Urial in India, but in a 2016 publication in “Bovids of the World,” they listed it as the Punjab Urial, making it a separate species of Urial.

We got down from the vehicle, and slowly approached the Urial on foot to get closer. We paid close attention to the wind direction as we approached.

When we got too close to them, they quickly put some distance between you and themselves. We were able to see more than 30 of them, including some males with large horns, while we were watching them for about 2 hours.

And…the long awaited lunch time. At the Hunting Lodge, the setting and the service was very pleasant.

They served loads of locally produced ingredients for lunch. And it was orange season!!!

The interior of the Hunting Lodge. It was heavily decorated with many “Trophies” everywhere. The price at the Punjab Urial hunting auction is expensive at US$15,000 to US$16,000 per animal. About 15 are hunted from the Punjab plains each year.

Around the lodge, there were some young Urial kids that had lost their fear of people. They kept their distance from us visitors, but they could go up close to the people who worked at the lodge.

Our guide Abul with a Punjab Urial kid.

I will introduce to you the the wildlife of the Kalabagh Private Game Reserve.

This is the Salt Range Chinkara. It used to be a subspecies of the India Chinkara, but it became independent as a species according to the picture book published in 2016. It is distributed from the salt mountains of Pakistan to near Delhi, the capital of India.

An Indian Hare

The Greater Coucal, found in the plains and rural areas of India and Pakistan.

A young Eurasian Griffon. The wings will turn white once they mature.

A Grey Francolin, found in the plains of India and Pakistan.

They are very cute birds, that are skittish and run away quickly into the bushes to hide.

Wild Boar

This is a beautiful male Black Francolin.

After 2 hours of wildlife watching in the morning, taking a break for lunch, and then making 2 more hours of observations, we headed back to Islamabad. Probably, we would have seen even more, had we been there in the morning and dusk hours.

Finally, the majestic figure of the Game Reserve Ranger who guided our group. I was surprised at first to learn that they are protecting these wildlife so they can be hunted, but by all means, please protect them properly!

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : Jan 2023, Kalabagh Private Game Reserve, Punjab

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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Category : ◆ Punjab > - Urial > ◇ Birds of Pakistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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15.03.2023 update

So Picturesque! Tour of Balochistan Vlog

In the winter of 2022-23, we were able to guide more people on tours to Balochistan, than ever before! Since 2018, the region has been facing many challenges while developing its tourism areas. The places where foreigners can enter are limited, but the moment you turn off of the main road, you will see an amazingly spectacular view.

This Vlog tour summarizes the drone footage from Kamitani Teppei, the tour leader of a tour in Jan 2023. It truly captures the amazing scenery of Pakistan.

 

Videography by Teppei Kamitani

Visit :Jan 2023, Makran Coast, Balochistan

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Balochistan.

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Category : = Video clip Balochistan > - Mud Volcano > ◆ Video Breathtaking Views of Pakistan > - Hingol National Park > - Kund Malir > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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