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20.07.2019 update

Himalayan Brown Bear in Autumn – Deosai National Park

A Himalayan Brown Bear which makes the glorious Deosai plateau a well-known and famous place to traverse and explore for wildlife lovers around the world. In fact, the name itself literally translates to, “The land of the Giants”.

The Himalayan Brown Bear is a subspecies of the brown bear that lives in and around the magnificent Himalayas.
Originally, it inhabited widely in Nepal, Tibet, North India, and North Pakistan. However, due to trophy hunting and specifically for the purposes of fur and medicine, it lost its habitat and the population decreased drastically.
It is said that Himalayan brown bear in Bhutan has already been extinct. Moreover. Only a few hundreds population in Northern India and Northern Pakistan remain in the world.

In October, I went to Deosai Plateau for the observation of Himalayan Brown Bear with Deosai National Park staff. During my visit, a staff member explained to me that the bear may come closer to the roadside, as there are comparatively fewer cars and people during this season.
But still it was far and I had to walk quite a distance to approach the bear….

The sun has fallen.
No doubt, it was difficult to walk quickly, considering the fact that we were over 4,000 meters above sea level.

Finally, I came to the perfect distance where I could photograph the gigantic Himalayan Brown Bear.

View of a Himalayan Brown Bear from the backside!
According to the staff of the national park, he was a young male, and he was seamlessly fat enough before the hibernation period.

Himalayan Brown Bears go into hibernation between November and December.

Photo & Text  : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Oct 2015, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Himalayan Brown Bear > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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14.07.2019 update

Snow Leopard returns to the mountain

In late February 2017, a Snow Leopard which attacked livestock in the village of Misgar in Northern Pakistan was captured. She entered the barn and killed goats and sheep. However, she could not get out of the barn.
The villagers understood that the Snow Leopard must be protected at all cost, but they wanted to ask the administration for compensation of their killed livestock. So, it was the third day after being captured, when she was finally released to the mountain.

This snow leopard was a female snow leopard who was being observed with two cubs near the village of Misgar. They did not release at Misgar but they transported to the Khunjerab National Park where she was released.

The story that snow leopard was captured in Misgar became news immediately, and I was trying to go there. Unfortunately, I was informed that a foreigner needs a permit to go there and I had no time for that. So, I gave up and stayed at Deh check post of Khunjerab National Park, where this snow leopard arrived.

To see the moment when this Snow Leopard is released, TV crew and government officials gathered and moved in a row.
It was decided to release her on the slope of the mountain, just after the Deh check post.

Even the cage was opened, snow leopard did not come out immediately. As it didn’t come out, the locals who were around enchanted, “Lolly, Lolly, come!”.
“Lolly” is the Snow Leopard kept at Sost check post, until autumn of 2016.
Now she has been shifted to Naltar valley. But when National Park staff see a female Snow Leopard, they cannot stop calling it “Lolly.”

As she was thirsty, so she immediately started to eat the snow.

She looked forward towards the people, after eating the snow.

And cautiously observed the environment around her.

She came out slowly from the cage. At this moment, applause arose from the local people standing there.

Finally, now she is freely walking into the wild.

After three days of restraint, her fur was disordered, and the blood of the livestock was still spread on her body.

She stopped to eat the snow.

The Snow Leopard went into the bush but still stared at us.

After a while, it started climbing the mountain again and sat down again.
Although this is a released Snow Leopard, it was first time to see a wild Snow Leopard in Pakistan for me.

We left the place hoping that this snow leopard could safely return to the two cubs in Misgar.
The next day, the staff went to see where the snow leopard was last sighted, but it was not there no more.

Fortunately, three days after the release, there was a message from the National Park staff that this snow leopard was witnessed in Misgar with two cubs.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Feb 2017, Khunjerab National Park, Gilgit -Baltistan
Special Thanks : Mr. Sultan Gohar -KNP(Khunjerab National Park), Mr. Farman Razah – KVO ( Khunjerab Villager Organization), Wildlife Department of Pakistan

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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PS: This female snow leopard again attacked the livestock pens and was killed by the villagers.

Category : - Snow Leopard > - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Khunjerab National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > ◇ Conservation of Wildlife, Nature
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08.07.2019 update

Buzi Pass – Makran Coastal Highway

While driving on the Makran Coastal Highway towards Ormara, one has to cross through the stupendous Buzi Pass.
Indeed, the drive itself on the Makran Coastal Highway is very scenic and beautiful. Similarly, climbing up top to the Buzi Pass is also a breathtaking experience.

It is a rock formation named, “Princess of Hope” at the starting point of Buzi pass. As for me, I was perplexed when I first saw it. Nevertheless, the Pakistani people were stopping by and taking photos.

“Princess of Hope” is truly a famous landmark. You will find a replica of this at the so-called “Zero Point” junction of Makran Coastal Highway and Uthal Road. Also, there are other rock formation named such as “Sphinx of Balochistan”, “Palace” and more.

Vehicle traveling on the endless road through astounding landscapes of Balochistan.

From the top of the Buzi Pass, you will see the Arabian Sea, huge eroded land, canyon extending from the coast; a geological wonderland.

Three Bikers from our “Pakistan Bikers Balochistan tour” are passing.
Crossing Buzi Pass is definitely one of the highlights of the Makran Coastal Highway drive, one must experience in their lifetime.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Feb 2019, Buzi Pass, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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28.06.2019 update

Nanga Parbat (8,126m) from the Deosai Plateau

Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world. It is a mountain also known as, “The Killer Mountain”, because many climbers died on their way to the summit, during the last century.

There are several famous places from where you can have a breathtaking view of Nanga Parbat. Such as Fairy Meadows, Herrligkoffer Base Camp, that overlooks the Himalaya’s largest ice wall, “Rupal Wall”, with the differences of 4,500 meters.

Nevertheless, Nanga Parbat from the Deosai Plateau side is also admirable!

We entered “Deosai National Park” from the Chilam gate.
Brace yourself. This is just a view from the entrance of “Deosai Plateau”.

You can see this splendid sight just from the roadway!

Soon you will see picturesque Sheosar Lake with reflecting blue water… It is at an altitude of 4,140m.
From here you can see Nanga Parbat, against the backdrop of the lake, in the sky.

We drove further to Kala Pani from Sheosar Lake. Nanga Parbat can be seen from the heart of Deosai plateau.

We visited this place in early October. The temperature of the camp at night dropped to below freezing, but I was able to see the beautiful Nanga Parbat, blessed with the fine autumn weather.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Oct 2015, Deosai Plateau, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan > - Nanga Parbat / Himalaya Range
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23.06.2019 update

Great Wall of Sindh – Rani Kot Fort

Rani Kot Fort, also known as, “The Great Wall of Sindh”. It is also listed in UNESCO’s world heritage tentative list since 1993.

The wall is 35 kilometers long. The history of the construction somehow is not yet clear. Moreover, it is believed that the original site was rebuilt at the very beginning of the 19th century.

The Great Wall extends in 3 directions. I did not walk up to the wall because there wasn’t much time to visit, and it was really hot during the daytime. I took this aerial shot using a drone.

On the way back from “The Great Wall of Sindh”, I met a family of nomads with a camel and some other animals. All in all, It was really a beautiful sight to witness the lovely people, and the Great Wall of Sindh, due to its vastness still has some hidden mysteries yet to be explored.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Oct 2018, Rani Kot Fort, Sindh

Category : - Monument / Heritage of Sindh > ◆ Sindh > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
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19.06.2019 update

Lolly the Snow Leopard -3

This is about Lolly the Snow Leopard, who has moved to the Naltar Valley.
Continuing from the previous day, I spent at Lolly’s facility from the morning. (The photo of Snow Leopard in this article is in captivity, not in wild)

Firstly, stop the jeep near the ski slope and walk from here. I asked the locals why Lolly was supposed to come to Naltar instead of Khunjerab National Park where she was born.
“I don’t know for sure, but it’s because Naltar has army facilities and army officials are watching it.”, he said. Certainly, at the fence of Lolly, there are army related people besides the tourists.

When I arrived at the fence, I saw Lolly was walking along the fence.
The staff said, “After eating meat, she walks like this.”

If you are observing for a long time, you will understand Lolly’s path, and if you wait there Lolly will come from the front.

Lolly from the back side. What a gorgeous looking snow leopard it is. That snow on the body, lovely.

I really feel Lolly is a charming female, and she needs a mate.

Look at the tail’s design! Look at the design of ears from the back!

Lolly was so active and showed various appearance today.
Finally, Lolly got meat at 16:00. The meat was frozen due to low temperature, but Lolly was chewing on the bones.
And after eating, she was cleaning herself.
I kept observing the lovely Lolly until dark.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Feb 2017, Captive condition at Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
Reference: The local staff of SLF at Naltar Valley

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Naltar Valley
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15.06.2019 update

Lolly the Snow Leopard -2

The story about the Snow Leopard, “Lolly”. (The photo of snow leopard in this article is in captivity, not in wild)

The Snow Leopard Lolly moved from Khunjerab National park check post to Naltar Valley in the winter of 2016. It moved to a larger facility, but it was a different environment from Khunjerab National Park, where she was born.

We visited the Naltar valley in the month of February. The high peaks, villages were very beautifully shrouded in snow, truly a winter wonderland.
We continued to Naltar where heavy snowfall was expected.

Naltar is a heavy snowfall area and is also known for its ski area. It is close to Gilgit, but I had to go by 4WD.

Finally, I arrived at Naltar. I went to the place where Lolly inhabited.
The place was located about 10min walk from Ski slope on the mountain.
But I was unable to find Lorry. I asked the person who is taking care of Lolly, he replied, “Lolly is sleeping in the snow pit, so wait”.
At last! Lolly came out of the snow pit.

Lolly must be about 4 years old. A beautiful female Snow Leopard.

Lolly started to move. This facility is located on the mountain slope. So, sometimes it is difficult to follow Lolly on the snowy slope.

The fence of the facility. If you want to take a beautiful picture, then you need a telephoto lens such as 400mm. Also, to get a better chance of photography, you need patience and time to stay and wait, as Lolly may be sleeping in the day time.
More importantly, it is ideal to stay overnight at Naltar where a simple guest house is available. It will be another winter experience!

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Feb 2017, Captive condition at Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
Reference: Local staff of SLF at Naltar Valley

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

*Youtube    Facebook   Instagram  << Please check our update activity !

Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Naltar Valley
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12.06.2019 update

Lolly the Snow Leopard -1

This article is about the Snow Leopard named “Lolly”, who was kept at the entrance of KVO check post, before the Khunjerab National Park entrance in 2015. (All photos of snow leopards in this article are taken while in captivity. Lolly is kept in the Naltar Valley as of May 2019.)

Snow Leopards follow and prey on wild animals such as Ibex in high mountains in northern Pakistan. In winter, descend down to the Karakoram Highway.

About 13 years ago, there was a Snow Leopard cub named “Leo” at the National Park office. Tourists who crossed the border to China used to see Leo and could take a photo with him. But it went to the zoo in the United States.

About seven years ago, villagers found a Snow Leopard cub drowned in the frozen river and saved it. A female Snow Leopard cub, who is estimated to be about six months old, was named “Lolly” and was kept in check post of KVO and Khunjerab National Park near Sost. When we visited, Lolly was in her third year in the cage.

Mr. Farman Razah who saved Lolly gets close to Lolly …. Lolly looks happy and makes sounds like cats “gorogoro” …

Lolly playing with national park staff. She gets to eat 3 kg of meat every day. Mainly of sheep, goats, and yaks.

How long will Lolly stay in this cage? Why it cannot be returned back to the wild?

At that time, the staff of this check post was telling us some ideal plan for Lolly that, when Leo comes back from the United States both Lolly and Leo will be shifted to Naltar Valley and will try for breeding.

Unfortunately, this is Pakistan, it does not go as planned. Lolly has been moved to the Naltar Valley, but Leo did not come back from US.

Finally, this is a photo of Leo when he was small. Photo with Mr. Sultan Gohar in Khunjerab National Park. (Photo courtesy of Khunjerab National Park)

It’s a pity that it’s not wild. Still, it’s something for a big cat’s lover !

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA

Photo of Leo & Sultan Gohar: Credits to Mr. Sultan Gohar – KNP (Khunjerab National Park)
Observation: **Captive condition in cage** Oct 2015, KVO Area
Reference: Mr.Sultan Gohar – KNP,  Mr. Farman Razah – KVO

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

*Youtube    Facebook   Instagram  << Please check our update activity !

Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Khunjerab National Park
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06.06.2019 update

Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-3

A top view of the Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park. This mud volcano has been recognized as a holy place by Hindus. In fact, a lot of Hindu pilgrimage visit this volcano. However, it was surprising to see rubbish lying around the mud volcano.

The current number of Hindus in Pakistan is said to be about  8 million (according to Pakistan Hindu Council), of which about 94% live in Sindh. There are few Hindus in Balochistan province, but during the pilgrimage season, the Chandragup Mud Volcano and Hindu temples in Hingol National Park are full of pilgrims.

Mud spout on top of the Chandragup mud volcano. The appearance of mud spouting occurs every 1-2 minutes when active, but sometimes it is completely absent.
Sometimes we can see “Offering” by Hindu pilgrimage on the surface of a mud volcano.

It was a bit cloudy during this day, but the sunlight spread on the other mud volcano was looking very gorgeous.

Sunset over the Chandragup Mud Volcano.

Photo & Text : Mariko  SAWADA **Some photos are taken by a drone
Special Thanks: Yoko Kadonaga for photography of spout on top of Chandragup Mud Volcano
Visit: Feb 2019, Chandragup Mud Volcano, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan
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30.05.2019 update

Hingol National Park – Mud Volcano World-2

“Chandragup Mud Volcano”, located on the coast of Balochistan with a distant view of the Arabian Sea. It is also a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site and a mud volcano that has been known for a long time.

A mud volcano is a landform created by the eruption of mud, water, and gases. It’s called “volcano” but it is not necessarily related to the typical volcanic activity. It only erupts out mud along with methane gas.

The mud volcano in Balochistan was reported to exist in 1840, but the survey began to take place after the earthquake in 1945. At that time, the coast of Balochistan was severely damaged by an earthquake. During this period, the mud volcano also got activated.

The Arabian Plate subducts into the Eurasian Plate in the coastal area of Balochistan. In many cases, volcanic activity is active in such places but in the case of Balochistan, huge “mud volcano area” has emerged.

There are two other mud volcanoes near Chandragup Mud Volcano. This mud volcano was slightly active in November 2018 but has been inactive since then.

An Inactive mud volcano, in the immediate vicinity of Chandragup Mud Volcano. This is an aerial shot which I took through drone, but it looks beautiful from the top of Chandragup Mud Volcano.

Exceptionally looking view of Chandragup Mud Volcano during sunset.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA **all photography taken by a drone
Visit: Nov 2019, Hingol National Park, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : - Mud Volcano > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
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