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Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 1

The following is a photo report on a 2024 season excursion to the Baltoro Glacier—titled “Over the Baltoro Glacier to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C.“—carried out by Teppei Kamitani, a guide from Japan who has visited and photographed the glacier many times.

The first part of the blog traces and documents (with photos) the first half of the trek in the following order: [Askole → Jhora → Skam Tsok → Paiju → Khoburtse → Urdukas].

My first step was to take a domestic flight from Islamabad to the town of Skardu, the gateway for trekkers in the area. Weather permitting, it’s possible to get a spectacular view of many mountains—including Nanga Parbat—during the flight, but this time it was cloudy and we could not see it. However, had the flight been cancelled, it would have taken two days to travel there on land, so we considered ourselves lucky that we were able to arrive safely.

Town of Skardu, the gateway to trekkers

The day after arrival at Skardu was also a backup day in case of flight cancellations, as well as for obtaining permits and other bureaucratic formalities. During this time, it was possible to head out to the Deosai Plateau to acclimatize oneself to the altitude of 4,200 m.

The following day, we headed to Askole, the starting point of the trek. The route took us through the Shigar Valley, passing the Sarfaranga Cold Desert and viewpoints overlooking the valley. The road became steeper and steeper as we approached Ascole, with more ups and downs along the riverside slopes.

Heading towards Askole by 4WD

Day 1: Askole-Korophong-Jhola

At long last, the trek began from the lush green village of Askole. On the way, we completed the various formalities at the office in Testay Village, the last inhabited settlement in this vicinity. Beyond this point, a vast, uninhabited path stretched out before us.

Starts in the lush green village of Askole
Walking through desolate land

About four and a half hours after leaving Askole, we had lunch at Korophong, a camp in the end moraine of the Biafo Glacier, which flows from the Latok Mountains. We continued walking along the Braldu River and Jhola Camp came into view on the other side of the Domordo River. Here we crossed the recently opened Snow Leopard Bridge to reach the new Jola Camp.

Lunch at Korophong inside the Biafo Glacier
New Jhora Camp, located along the riverbank

Day 2: Jhola to Skam Tsok

The trail follows the Braldu River with gentle ups and downs, the second half of the day walking along the cliffs. When Skam Tsok comes into view in the distance, we saw Broad Peak (8,051m), the 12th highest peak in the world.

Broad Peak(8,051m) can be seen in the distance

We arrived in Skam Tsok at 11:20, taking about four and a half hours. After lunch, we relaxed with a tea break to keep our spirits up.

Skam Tsok camp and the big rainbow in the sky

Day 3: Skam Tsok to Paiju

This was the day of the half-day walk to Paiju, the camp in front of the glacier. Two and a half hours after we’d passed the gentle ups and downs from Skam Tsok, the Baltoro Glacier began to come into view. The iconic mountains of the Baltoro Glacier, such as Trango Castle and Cathedral, were also visible.

We continued up and down the river bank path
We crossed the log bridge carefully
The Baltoro Glacier finally came into view

The second half of the route followed a traverse path to reach Paiju Camp (3,450m), which was covered with poplar trees. The clean mountain water jabbered around us, and even gave us the opportunity to wash our clothes. We put chairs in front of our tent and had ourselves a relaxing afternoon. We were refreshed for the trek up the Baltoro Glacier…

Before Paiju, the trail enters the cliff path again, with more ups and downs
The campsite at Paiju was delightfully well-shaded. Once up on the glacier, there would be no shade at all

Day 4: Paiju to Khoburtse

At long last, this was the day we’d walk to the Baltoro Glacier—though it would end up being a long one. We walked to the Baltoro Glacier and reached the glacier tongue in ninety minutes.

Finally, the edge of the Baltoro Glacier tongue

There was a bit of sunshine at first, but clouds started to gather from the lower part of the Pailu and it began to rain. We followed the glacier’s outlet, gradually making our way up the mountainside, and had lunch at Liligo. From here, wearing helmets, we crossed a slope where there was a risk of landslides. What awaited us at the end, on the opposite bank of the glacier river, was the camp of Khoburtse (3,940m)!

Thanks to this small wooden bridge, we didn’t have to wade across the river. We crossed the bridge on our way to the Khoburtse campsite
The North Star, Trango Castle, Biale, and the Cathedral …. night photography at Khoburtse Camp site

Days 5 & 6: Khoburtse to Urdukas

We spent four hours trekking to Urdukas (4,050m). The plan for today was not to enter the Baltoro Glacier, but to cross two unnamed glaciers on its tributaries. As we made our way up the gently sloping upper reaches of the glacier, there was a point where we could see Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, III and IV, but this time they were obscured by clouds.

Morning in Khoburtse. The rocky peak in the foreground is Trango Castle (5753m)
We didn’t enter the Bartolo Glacier, but traversed the side slopes. There was a lot of up and down

Urdukas means “broken boulder,” so it was fitting that there were actually boulders scattered around the campsite. The Baltoro Glacier lay directly in front, and beyond that, the Trango mountain range, the Cathedral, the Biale Glacier flowing down from Biale, and other famous peaks and glaciers could be seen in a panoramic view.

Urdukas camp site where we stay for two nights, is a high vantage point overlooking the Baltoro Glacier.
The Baltoro Glacier and rock peaks as seen from the rock terrace of Urdus camp
The Baltoro Glacier and the famous mountain range in the direction we are heading to

This trip would not have been possible without the support of the local staff.
We stayed at the Urdukas camp, which had running water, for two nights, including a rest day. I think this break probably really helped our guides refresh mentally as well. The local staff who supported the trip also took a break and sang along, following Ali’s lead.

Ali led the porters in singing

 

To be continued in the second half…

 

Photo & text : Teppei Kamitani

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024 Baltoro Galcier- K2B.C.

 

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K2 & Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 2) Paiju to Khoburtse

K2 & Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 3) Khoburtse to Urdukas

K2 & Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 4) Urdukas to GoreⅡ

K2 & Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 5) GoreⅡ to Concordia

Staying in Concordia, surrounded by the high Peaks of the Karakorum: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Mountain Range

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Kaghan Valley ; Himalayan Bird Watching in Summer

The best places to go birding and see Himalayan birds in Pakistan are the Margalla Hills in winter and the Kaghan Valley in summer. Birds that have spent the winter in the Margalla Hills, the Punjab Plains, and even in places as far away as southern India and Sri Lanka, come to the Kaghan Valley around May to breed and spend the summer. They reside in the valley’s moist temperate Himalayan forests (comprised mostly of evergreen conifers with some deciduous trees), which span an area of around 2,000~2,800 m.

The following is a record of my birding experience in the Kaghan Valley in late May. Many places in the Kaghan Valley, including Narang, have undergone development to accommodate domestic tourists (if I am to be honest, overtourism has left them in a terrible state), and birdwatchers are advised to avoid visiting during peak season or on weekends.

We walked along the slopes of a coniferous forest with giant pine trees and explored the streams and cultivated areas. During this visit, in addition to birds, we were able to observe two species of flying squirrels (the Kashmir flying squirrel and the red giant flying squirrel), as well as a rare species of Kashmir langur.

Here are some of the birds we encountered during our three days and two nights of birding.

Great Barbet

This is a species I have encountered many times. The great barbet is widely distributed in Southeast Asia and South Asia, but is found only in limited areas in Pakistan, such as the Kaghan Valley and Murree. Being of 32~35 cm in length, it is the largest bird in the barbet family.

Verditer Flycatcher

A verditer flycatcher (male). This summer bird is easy to observe as it often perches on top of tall trees.

Yellow-billed Blue Magpie

Yellow-billed blue magpie are omnivores and can be encountered in a variety of situations. This family of corvids can be seen year-round in the Himalayan foothills.

Himalayan Bulbul

A Himalayan bulbul. This is a species of bulbul found year-round in the area from Swat Valley to Chitral, and from Margalla Hills to Kaghan Valley.

Streaked Laughingthrush

A streaked laughingthrush. This bird is found year-round in northern Pakistan and could be observed daily in the Kaghan Valley.

Grey Bushchat

A grey bushchat (male). This species makes short migrations (between 1900 m~3000 m) in the Himalayas and can be seen everywhere in the Kaghan Valley in summer. Females are buff (cream to light brown) in color.

Russet Sparrow

A russet sparrow (male). This species seems to be seen year-round in the Kaghan Valley, but also migrates to the Punjab region in winter.

Blue-capped Rock Thrush

A blue-capped rock thrush (breeding male). A summer bird in northern Pakistan. They migrate to southern India in winter. It would be great to get a picture of the breeding males!

Lemon-rumped Warbler

A lemon-rumped warbler. This bird makes short winter and summer migrations in the Himalayan foothills.

Green-backed Tit

A green-backed tit breeding in a hole in a large dead pine tree. They can be seen year-round, but some migrate down to the Margalla Hills in winter.

Western Crowned Warbler

A western crowned warbler, a summer bird of northern Pakistan that migrates to peninsular India for the winter.

Rufous-bellied Niltava

A rufous-bellied niltava. This summer bird is observed in limited areas such as Murree and Kaghan Valley.

Chestnut-bellied Nuthach

A chestnut-bellied nuthatch. A deciduous forest bird that is seen year-round in limited areas of Pakistan such as Murree and the Kaghan Valley.

Long-tailed Minivet

A long-tailed minivet (male). Migrates to the foothills of the Himalayas in summer and along the Indus system to the central Punjab Plain in winter. Females have gray backs and yellow bellies.

Indian Blue Robin

An Indian blue robin (male). A summer bird of the temperate Himalayan forests. Its beautiful chirping echoed in the forest while we were observing it. In winter, it migrates to peninsular India and Sri Lanka, where it can be seen not only in forests but also in tea plantations.

Rock Bunting

A rock bunting, a summer bird of northern Pakistan that migrates to the Punjab plains and northern Balochistan in winter.

 

Black-and-yellow Grosbeak

A black-and-yellow grosbeak (male). Found year-round in temperate Himalayan forests.。

Himalayan Bluetail

A Himalayan bluetail. This summer bird of northern Pakistan migrates to the Himalayan foothills in winter. It used to be treated as a subspecies of the red-flanked bluetail, but due to differences in migration distance and the darker blue coloration of the adult male, it became an independent species.

Spot-winged Tit /Black-crested Tit

The spot-winged tit or black-crested tit, a bird found year-round in the Himalayan coniferous forest zone, used to be treated independently as a species, but is now considered a subspecies of the coal tit.

Himalayan Woodpecker

A Himalayan woodpecker (male). This woodpecker is found year-round in the Himalayan forests of northern Pakistan.

Eurasian Jackdaw

Eurasian jackdaws observed from the parking lot of the Balakot restaurant where we had lunch. Their white eyes are very distinctive. We were also able to observe an Asian paradise-flycatcher in Balakot.

On a related note, I would like to share with you some of the other wildlife we encountered besides birds. My encounter with a rare Kashmir langur was so engrossing that I briefly forgot to keep looking for birds. At night, we observed two species of flying squirrels. Thanks to these activities, we had a very busy three days from early morning to midnight.

Kashmir gray langur

This animal is listed as endangered by the ICUN due to habitat loss. It is a member of the langur family, which is difficult to encounter due to its large migratory distance.

Flying squirrels start their activities at night, when they are no longer targeted by birds of prey, and we got the chance to observe two species, the red giant flying squirrel and the Kashmir flying squirrel, over the course of two evenings.

Red giant flying squirrel
Kashmir flying squirrel

Finally, a photo of some other group members who enjoyed birding together. The birder population in Pakistan seems to be increasing!

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

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Category : - Kaghan valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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Butkara I – Gandhara Site of the Swat Valley

Butkara I is an archaeological site in the Swat Valley, which was one of the centers of Gandhara. It is known for its main stupa, which dates back to the 3rd century B.C. to King Ashoka of the Maurya Empire, and for the 272 votive stupas that surround it. Butkara I has not only a group of stupas, but also a monastery and other buildings—though that part has not yet been excavated, and houses have already been built on top of it.

The site was excavated between 1956 and 1962 by the Italian Archaeological Mission and the Department of Archaeology of the Government of Pakistan. The site dates back to the 3rd century B.C. during the Maurya Empire and is believed to have been in use until around the 11th century A.D.

The main stupa, with its circular Sanchi-shaped base, was enlarged five times over the centuries, with the oldest part, a 3rd century B.C. Maurya Empire stupa. Part of the excavation site reveals the process of its expansion.

Around the main stupa, there is a path that devotees walked along to the right. The visitors must have worshipped not only the stupa but also the reliefs carved on the drum.

The paths around the stupa are covered with paving stones, and some of them still have glass decorations.

This seated Buddha relief was excavated from a layer containing coins of Azes II of the Indo-Scythians, dated 35-12 B.C., so the relief is considered to date to the late 1st century B.C. or early posterior AD. Conservative archaeologists believe it dates to the 1st or 2nd century AD, since the Buddha image is believed to have appeared later. The origin of the Buddha image has always been one of the major themes of Gandhara art. The date of the Buddha image’s appearance continues to be debated.

Let’s take a look at the votive stupa surrounding the main stupa. This votive stupa is a small stupa-shaped structure built around the main stupa. It is thought to have been donated by the royalty and nobility of the time. Votive stupas were also objects of worship at that time.

This is part of the relief on the square base of the votive stupa. This figure may be a depiction of the Great Departure from the life of the Buddha, in which the beloved horse Kanthaka is licking Siddhartha’s feet and farewells him. This votive stupa may have been decorated with motifs favored by the donor.

Relief of grapes on a votive stupa

The head of a tiger depicted in relief. In the lower right is a delicately carved Corinthian capital.

Tigers are believed to have become extinct in Pakistan around 1900. At that time, Bengal tigers must have roamed the rich Swat forests.

Relief of a person holding a bowl in a memorial service.

Relief of a votive stupa, Triratna (the Three Jewels). It depicts the three chakras which represent the Dharma, the Buddha, and the Sangha, as objects of worship.

The motif is not known due to the large number of missing parts. The material used for the sculpture is generally green phyllite.

Here are some of the Butkara I artifacts on display at the Swat Museum. I picked out some items that are unique to Swat.

Artifacts from Butkara I: A panel showing a scene from the life of Buddha: Siddhartha Going to School. This scene in Gandhara depicts him going to school riding on a sheep. Sometimes he rides directly on the sheep, and sometimes he rides in a sheep-led cart. So far, no theories seem to explain the reason for this.

Artifact from Butkara I: A female figure of an aristocrat of the time. She is wearing a very gorgeous hair ornament, showing the Swat customs of the time.

Artifact from Butkara I: Likewise, a statue that seems to represent an aristocratic woman of the time. The costume and decoration of the woman holding a lotus flower in one hand is beautifully depicted.

Artifact from Butkara I: This relief used to be at the site but was moved to the Swat Museum. In the scene of Siddhartha’s supposed “Engagement,” the prince Siddhartha stands in the center, the rightmost figure is a shy Yashodhara, and beside him is the priest that introduces Yashodhara. To the left of Siddhartha is a kneeling Mara and around her are Mara’s three daughters. Mara is depicted as a symbol of worldliness and a preventer of Siddhartha’s enlightenment.

Corinthian capital. It depicts a woman, possibly the donor, with acanthus leaves.

The Swat Museum has rooms for exhibiting artifacts from Barikot, the Saidu Sharif Stupa, and Butkara I. Please take your time to visit the museum.

↓↓ Butkara – Gandhara site of Pakistan

Butkara I – Although now surrounded by residential areas, a record of a visit by the Chinese monk Song Yun in AD 520 describes the very ornate Butkara Stupa complex.

 

Image & text: Mariko SAWADA

References: The Life of Buddha, by Isao Kurita, etc.

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Category : = Video Clip KPK > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > - Swat
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“Alter Rock”, Thalpan – Petroglyphs along the Indus River

The Altar Rock at Thalpan is located on the sandy north bank of the Indus River. The rock is carved with motifs, mainly animal rather than Buddhist motifs. This is a fascinating example of Petroglyphs from the ancient Silk Road.

Since ancient times, Thalpan has had many visitors who come and go through this area.  It was the nomads who first chose this site to carve. The rock face in front of the Alter Rock may have been used as a veritable ‘altar’, with various animals and slaughter scenes depicted.
These Petroglyphs with non-Buddhist motifs are thought to date from the mid-1st millennium BC.

overall view of Alter Rock

One of the Petroglyphs that stands out on this Altar Rock is this image of a Warrior with Sacrifice. It appears to be a scene of a man slaughtering an  animal (many sources call it a goat, but as an animal lover, it looks like an ibex to me). The figure of a Central Asian-style man holding a large knife is very distinctive.

The man’s dress is thought to be that of an equestrian nomad of the time, and it has been suggested that he may be from the Parthia, a dynasty that flourished on the Iranian plateau from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD.

This animal sacrifice (or slaughter) Petroglyphs motif suggests that the influence of Central Asian peoples was stronger than the influence of Buddhism, which forbids the killing of animals.

This is a designed horse or unicorn with its forelegs bent at 45 degrees.

This pose, called “Knielauf,” was used in ancient Greece to depict a flying condition and was also popular in Achaemenid Persian art. The horse’s mane and tail are braided, giving them an appearance of bows.

Is it a designed ibex? The circular eyes are also an Iranian expression.

This shows a deer-like creature with antler and a predator with two tails chasing it. As a wildlife observer in Pakistan, it looks like a snow leopard attacking an ibex on a cliff to me. What is interesting, is that there is a head of a snake, at the end of the jagged line that also looks like a cliff.

One theory is that it shows an ibex in trouble, with a snake in front, a snow leopard behind, plus a hunter and his dogs, and nowhere to go.”

Such wavy designs are said to be a common feature of the art of the Altai region in southern Siberia.

The presence of Petroglyphs with Iranian elements at Altar Rock is not surprising, as Gandhara and Taxila were already satraps of the Achaemenid period. It is surprising that there was interaction between the Altai region of southern Siberia and this Indus region in the north, across one of the most mountainous regions in the world.

Petroglyphs from Thalpan Zyarat depict motifs from the Okunev culture of southern Siberia.

A large Buddha figure with a halo is seated with four smaller seated Buddha figures, also all with halos.

Each Buddha is in Dhayana Mudra sign and their garments cover their shoulders, with gracefully drawn parallel robe crests. Such garment crests are similar to designs found in the Gupta empire art, which flourished in India between AD 320 – 550.

A creature, possibly an ibex, is depicted on the same rock, and its movement and direction suggest that the ibex was carved first, and then the Buddha image was carved on top of it.

The west panel is also covered with Petroglyphs.

The Alter Rocks are the masterpieces of the Indus River Petroglyphs.

As we posted in previous blogs, it is such a shame that these rock carvings will be lost forever due to the construction of the dam.

 

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Indus river bank > ◇ Rock carvings / Petroglyph
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Climbing Shatung Peak, a 5,000-meter summit on Deosai Plateau

We finally fulfilled our long-cherished dream to climb Shatung Peak in the Deosai Plateau. That became possible only inn summer 2023, while in summer 2020 the tour was cancelled due to Covid -19 pandemic, when international flights were put to a halt. Overcoming the aftermath of pandemic and a tough route, we were able to reach the summit. We are tremendously grateful to our climbing guides and porters from Satpara village for their gracious support.

360-degree panoramic view from the summit. Feel like a high altitude climber!

From Chilas, we drove up to the Deosai Plateau through the Astor Valley. On the way, we were astonished by the view of  Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the 9th highest peak on the planet. On the Deosai Plateau, we camped by the beautiful Sheosar Lake, from where this majestic peak was visible. The lake is a very beautiful peaceful place, but sadly many local tourists were enjoining loud music until late at night. The next morning we entered an area with no other visitors in sight and found the original Deosai Plateau.

The first part of the climb was a relatively easy route, with patches of buttercups and primroses. Little did we know that a difficult scree slope was awaiting.

The mountain en route is dotted with lakes in a very beautiful valley. The snowy mountain in front is Shatung Peak, and we are aiming exactly there!

We walked through a patch of primrose to the camp. It was easy up to this point.

We arrived at Camp 1 on the scree slope. Now where shall we pitch our tents?

Sleeping on the snow is generally much more comfortable than sleeping on scree. Finally, we will challenge the summit early tomorrow morning!

The route from Camp 1 to the summit is this slope, covered with a mass of smaller loose stones. The climb is steep and strenuous.

The view is spectacular when you stop and look back.

Beyond the mountains is Kashmir on the Indian side. Srinagar is also very close. The famous peaks of the Indian Himalaya, Nun peak and Kun Peak were also visible.

The world’s 9th highest peak, Nanga Parbat 8,126m, is on the left.

The steep climb up the scree slope is almost over. The ridge is getting closer.

Once on the ridge, all that remained was to climb up the snowy ridge. The sun was getting high in the sky.

We successfully climbed Shatung Peak (5,260m) with 5 core team members, guides, and porters! Nanga Parbat is in the background!

From the summit, we could see K2 and the Baltoro Mountains. From summit we could see all five of the 8,000 peaks in Pakistan: Nanga Parbat (8,126m), K2 (8,611m), Broad Peak (8,051m), Gasherbrum I (8,068m), and Gasherbrum II (8,034m). The weather was fine, with no wind. Forgetting about the steep scree slope that awaited us, we stayed at the summit for about an hour and enjoyed this blissful moment.

 

Image & text : Tomoaki TSUTSUMI

Tour conducted in July 2023, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan

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Category : - Nanga Parbat > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan
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Hungry Tigress Jataka- Rock Carving of Chilas

“This blog is documenting the precious Silk Road heritage site, the ‘Indus rock carvings’, which will be lost forever in a few years when two dams on the Indus River are completed”

 

Have you ever heard of the Hungry Tigress Jataka「捨身飼虎」?  In Japan, the story of the Hungry Tigress Jataka is depicted on the side of the Tamamushi Zushi「玉虫厨子」, a national treasure in the collection of ancient Horyuji Temple(法隆寺), even before Kyoto was built – when Buddhism was freshly adoped by the Japanese elite.

There are rock engravings along the Indus River in Chilas where the Hungry Tigress Jataka can still be seen, despite certain degree of deterioration the engravings underwent.

 

About Hungry Tigress Jataka (Vyaghri-Jataka) 

Long ago, there was a king in India who had three brothers, every of them a prince. One day, the king and the three princes went to play in a bamboo forest. There they met a mother tiger with seven cubs. The animals were starving, emaciated and on the verge of starvation.
The three princes felt deep compassion, but two of them left, saying that they could not save the animals. The third prince said, “Bodhisattvas offer themselves out of compassion to save others. I will offer myself to save the life of a starving tiger “. The prince gave himself up and the tiger ate him. The story goes that the prince who saved the lives of the tiger was the Buddha himself in one of his previous lives.

More information on Hungry Tigress Jataka and the Tamamushi Zushi at Horyu-ji Temple can be found on the websites of the respective temples.

The following is a sketch of this rock engraving, although it is quite faded and difficult to make out.

Source : The Indus – Cradle and Crossroads of Civilizations (Pakistan-German Archeological Research)

This sketch of the rock engraving shows a lying prince, a tiger cub about to eat the prince, the father king and two brother princes watching from safe distance behind a rock.

Decipherment of the Brahmi script beside this image has also proved that it is Hungry Tigress Jataka (Vyaghri-Jataka).

The entire surface of the rock on which the Hungry Tigress Jataka is depicted. A large stupa is depicted in the centre. There is a hemispherical Anda on a square base, with Harmika, symbolic umbrellas and banners, which are characteristic of the Gandhara style. It is thought that Buddhism was at its peak influence in the Upper Indus around the 5th century.

Unfortunately, this precious rock engraving will also be lost when the dam is completed. “Unfortunately” is not the right word that can be used to describe it, perhaps. The destruction of the rock engravings began with the construction of the Karakoram Highway in the 1960s, and the rock engravings have been destroyed with every expansion of the road. Some were even lost when they were painted over by people who did not like the Buddhist motif for a time.

Painted rock engravings along the Karakoram Highway. The central figure of a snow leopard chasing an ibex was washed out in December 2020.

Again, the time was limited, but we worked on washing the rock engravings that had been painted.

This is the current state of the rock engraving. From right to left, Manjushri, Bejewelled Buddha with a devotee holding an incense burner or lamp and stupa. A trefoil-shaped arch surrounds the Buddha’s entire body, is in Kashmir style.

The picture below shows how this looked before the paint was applied.

Source:The Indus – Cradle and Crossroads of Civilizations (Pakistan-German Archeological Research)

We will continue to wash off the paint from these rock engraving panels.Please come and witness this wonderful Buddhist heritage before it is submerged in the dam.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

Site : Chilas, Gilgit-Baltitstan

*About the article: the article is based on an old book. I wonder if other views and explanations exist. I would be very happy if you could let me know so that I can study it.

Reference :”Huma records on Karakoram Highway”, ” The Indus, cradle and crossroads  of civilizations”

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - the Karakoram Highway > - Indus river bank > ◇ Rock carvings / Petroglyph
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Rock Carvings of Shatial, – Silk Road heritage – soon to be submerged in the Indus river dam

This blog is documenting the precious Silk Road heritage site, the ‘Indus rock carvings’, which will be lost forever in a few years when two dams on the Indus River are completed.

 

Stunning stupa depictions and inscriptions, “rock carvings of Shatial”

Shatial Rock Carvings, on a slope slightly off the Karakoram Highway down to the Indus River, located on the south bank of the Indus, between the Darel Valley to the east and the Tangir Valley to the west, were very important site for travelers, trade caravans and pilgrims on the Silk Road.

The rock carving ranges from those considered pre-Buddhist to those from the Gandhara heyday and post-Gandhara eras.

Firstly, the picture below shows the most famous rock carving in Shatial site. This rock art is impactful enough to elicit “wow!” response even from an ordinary tourist.

In the center of the rock is a large, delicately depicted stupa with many bells. On the left is a depiction of the “Sibi Jataka” and on the right is a votive stupa.

On the left side of the rock, the name of the stupa’s builder is inscribed in Kharoshthi script (or Gāndhārī, ancient Indo-Iranian script), which dates back to the 5th century.
Between the stupa and the votive stupa the names of people who lived back then (perhaps, some dignitaries) are inscribed in Brahmi and Sogdian script.

Two devotees dressed in Central Asian-style costumes approach the main stupa from three stepping stones. This staircase leads to a plinth decorated with a ‘four-stepped design’. Two pillars support the beam and the domed stupa. Bells are also attached to the beam, stupa and niche.
The stupa is topped by a series of umbrellas, from the top most of which hang down banners on either side like an arch. Small bells are also attached to the umbrellas, making this rock engraving different and novel from the other stupas.

The votive stupa to the right of the main stupa has four steps leading up to a high base, depicting a triangular stupa with a series of umbrellas above it and flags billowing and fluttering. It is a different style of depiction from the main stupa.

This figure on the left shows the ‘Sibi Jataka’.

 

About Sibi Jataka

(The Jataka is the stories of former lives of the Buddha )

There was a kind-hearted king named King Sibi.
A dove chased by a falcon flew to King Sibi and asked for help.

The falcon came to King Sibi and said, “I have not eaten for many days and if I do not eat the dove, I will die from starvation. Whose life do you consider more important, the dove’s or mine?”

So King Sibi thought that the falcon’s life is also important, so he cut off a piece of meat from his own leg, weighing the same as the dove, and placed it on the balance. But the dove was heavier, so he cut off the flesh again and placed it on the balance, but the weights were not equal.

King Sibi thought deeply and put his own body on the balance, and it balanced. The king said to the hawk, “Please eat me and get well”.
King Sibi tried to save the dove’s life by giving his own life to the falcon.

The falcon, knowing King Sibi’s heart, appeared to him in the form of Indra God and he saluted King Sibi’s action by saying, “You will become a Buddha in the future”.

 

In this rock carving, the Buddha sits in a cave, holding a ‘dove’ in his hand. The person depicted on the right holds a balance. The object on the balance is the flesh of King Sibi, which was cut off to save the dove’s life.
Below the Buddha holding the dove, devotees are depicted on both sides.

The above description is just one of many stories behind carvings in the main stupa. Shatial site has many other unique, valuable iconographies.

This is the carving on the rock opposite the main stupa, “Yantra”, a holy set of symbols at the center to the right, and “Labyrinth” on the bottom left.

 

Above and below are Sogdian tamga, emblems used by ancient Eurasian sedentary and nomadic tribes and their influenced cultures, represented in rock carving.

Sogdian Tamga

It’s difficult to see, but can you see the person holding what looks like a cup?

This is a rock carving of Sogdian performing a ritual in front of an altar, most probably. Probably a fire worship ritual?

 

 

 

 

 

Other animal rock carvings are depicted by people who walked the Silk Road. The rock carvings in the upper Indus, Gilgit and Hunza river basins are mainly ibex wild goat, with snow leopards and markhors goats, but here we see camels and elephants depicted.

The elephant figures remind us of the proximity to India. Apart from the picture below, there were several rock carvings that appeared to be camels and elephants, but only those that more or less certain are shown here.

Petroglyph of Bactrian Camel
Petroglyph of Goose
Petroglyph of Bactrian Camel

There is always something new to discover at the Shatial site.

By the way, the village seen from the rock carving site is full of dwellings that have been built at a rapid pace to get compensation for the submerged dwellings caused by the dam. The environment around the ancient rock carving has changed considerably.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

*About the article: the article is based on an old book. I wonder if other views and explanations exist. I would be very happy if you could let me know so that I can study it.

Reference :”Huma records on Karakoeum Highway”, ” The Indus, cradle and crossroad of civilizations”

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Category : - Indus river bank > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > ◇ Rock carvings / Petroglyph > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
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Skardu – Indus Valley in Spring

You will be amazed by the scenery as you arrive in Skardu on a domestic flight; almost all tourists take photos as soon as they arrive. The airport is on a desert plain, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, on the banks of the Indus River.

Skardu’s airport is on an high-altitude desert of 2,230m. Last year, it was promoted to “International Airport.” Recently, the operation rate of the Skardu route has improved, and it is now flying not only from Islamabad, but also from Karachi and Lahore in summer. However, in case of flight cancellation, there is no land route from Karachi. It is still safer for foreign tourists to choose flights from Islamabad instead.

Video of Islamabad – Skardu flight with the Nanga Parbat right at the front!

It takes about 20 minutes from the airport to the town of Skardu. Inhabited by the Balti people, Skardu means ‘land between two high places’ in the Balti language. It was once part of Tibet and was also a trading center to Kashmir. It later became Islamized, and after the independence of India and Pakistan in 1947, it went through three wars and in the end, it belonged to Pakistan.

March 23rd, when I arrived, was Pakistan Day. On March 22, 1940, Muhammad Ali Jinnah proposed the founding of Pakistan at a meeting of the All-India Muslim League, and on the following day, on the 23rd, the founding of the country was unanimously resolved. It is an important Pakistani Memorial Day, just like Independence Day.
There must have been an event at school, as there were children walking down the street with national flags in their hands.

Skardu’s Bazaar, a store that sells beans and grains.

A villager who came to buy goods from Kowardo village in the suburbs of Skardu. Their face is a bit Tibetan, unlike the Hunza and Punjab regions.
Balti men are known to be strong and are active in the K2 base camp trek and climbing in the summer.

A shop in the bazaar also had pink rock salt that was mined in the “Salt Range” from the Punjab region. There are various uses for it like salt licks for livestock, and smaller blocks are used when drinking “namkheen chai” (salty chai).
About Himalayan Salt: The Salt Range

At the Skardu vegetable market, a shipment of vegetables and fruits from the Punjab region arrived.

On this day, the apricots of Skardu were almost in full bloom

The Indus River seen from Hussain Abad Village in Skardu Valley. At this time of year, the Indus River is not mixed with melted glacier water and has a beautiful blue color.
The Indus River flows from Ladakh, India. 93% of the 3,180km (1,976 miles) long Indus River flows through Pakistan. After leaving the northern mountainous region, it flows across Pakistan into the Arabian Sea.

Skardu Valley looking back from the road from Skardu to Gilgit. This large canyon, 10 km wide and 40 km long (6.2 mi wide x 24.9 mi long), is said to have been formed by the glaciers of the Indus and Shigar Rivers between 3.2 million years ago and the Holocene period.

I took one last look before entering “Skardu Road,” which connects Karakorum Highway and Skardu.

The valley of Skardu is a very beautiful place with apricot blossoms in the spring, greenery in the summer and golden poplars in autumn.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit : March 2023, Skardu, Gilgiti-Baltistan

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Indus river bank > - Skardu Valley
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Shigar Valley in the Early Spring

Just after Nowruz (March 21), I visited the Shigar Valley. Nowruz is the Iranian New Year, but it is also celebrated in northern Pakistan. In Persian, “Now” means “new”, “Ruz” means “day”, and it falls on the vernal equinox. On this day, they start working in the fields and start new things.

On the domestic flight from Islamabad to Skardu, there were many elderly people heading to Skardu. They usually will spend the harsh winter in Islamabad and Karachi, where their sons and grandchildren live, and later return to their villages around Nowruz. The flight was full of villagers.

Shigar Village seen from the entrance of the valleyThe Shigar Valley is called the gateway to ‘Karakoram,’ and this ‘Shigar Road’ continues to the end of the motorway, Askole. Trekking and mountaineering start from Askole, walking on the Baltoro Glacier to K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum base camp. This is the path most people who aim for K2 take. The Shigar River is fed by the Braldu River, which flows from the Baltoro and Biafo Glaciers.

Apricot blossoms

The time I visited was when the apricot flowers were in full bloom. It can only be in “full bloom” for 1-2 days. Even so, there are differences in how the apricot blossoms bloom depending on the altitude, the amount of sunlight, and the amount of water, so I was able to see many stages of the apricot blossoms.

Shigar Village is the largest village in Shigar valley. Shigar Fort, managed by the Serena Hotel chain, is a lovely hotel that has been renovated from an old feudal lord’s castle. I walked around the hotel, and they are the village’s children.

Shigar Village
Shigar village

Compared to the past, Shigar Village has developed more than the image of the rustic village, and in the center, there are more cars now. But just taking a stroll around the village, you can enjoy the scenery and have some memorable encounters with the villagers.

Recently, more and more people are going to the Hashupi Fruit Garden, which is located further inside Shigar Village. The views of the valley and villages from Shigar Village to Hashupi Village are very beautiful. The scenery of the village also continues to be rustic.

Time spent with the children of the village
Photoshoot of the apricot blossoms

In the early morning, head to the Sarfranga cold dessert.

The Sarfranga Cold Desert lies on the bank of the Indus River, at the entrance to the Shigar Valley. It is a superb view point where you can see the sand dunes with the snowy mountains in the background.

Hussainbad Village seen from the Sarfranga sand dunes
The snowy mountains of Karakorum seen from the sand dunes

And after the morning shoot, I had a picnic breakfast, and the chai was the best!

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit : March 2023, Shigar Valley, Skardu, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Skardu Valley > - Shigar Valley
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Lolly, the Snow Leopard 2023

I visited “Lolly, the Snow Leopard” for the first time in a long time. The first time I saw her was in 2015, at the KVO check post in the border town of Sost, and at that time, she was 3 years old, being raised by people. Afterwards, Lolly was moved to Naltar Valley, where the Pakistan Army facilities are located.

So it must be that she is over 10 years old now?

Seeing Lolly through the bushes. She is so beautiful. But, she seems to be “a bit chubbier” than a wild snow leopard.

I waited for her to move away from the fence and go to a place where I could get some nature in the background of the photo. Here, Lolly was sitting in her favorite spot. On the day I visited, there was only one other local photographer there.

One of Lolly’s favorite sitting spots.

Oh, maybe she’s gonna make a move?

You can hear the rapid fire of camera shutters clicking in the moment she makes a move.

The thick tail of a snow leopard. This tail helps them balance when hunting on steep slopes and cliffs.

The bottom of her foot, covered with fur to protect it from the cold, and with a large ground surface area, making it easier to walk on snowy surfaces.
Pads on her feet…for the people who love them, we just can’t get enough of these ‘toe beans’!

The back is also nice to see, her ears, the nape of the neck…If you are watching a wild snow leopard, you can hardly get a view of them from this angle. Lolly was very cooperative this day, and during our stay of about 2.5 hrs, we could see her move to her ‘favorite spots’ and finally settle down right beside me.

Lolly was a very close distance (I could have reached out and felt her fluffy fur). I could hear her making growling noises.
Even though she is raised in captivity, for people who love snow leopards, to be able to be at this proximity with one, this is an interesting place where you can observe her to your heart’s content.

 

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jan 2023, Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Naltar Valley
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