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Stoat of Deosai Plateau

It is a Stoat, also known as a short-tailed weasel, which I observed at Deosai National Park, in October.
The morning and evening temperatures were below freezing point during this season. The Stoat was completely engulfed in white winter fur; protected from the predators and the harsh cold weather.

A Stoat is widely distributed in northern Eurasia continent and North America. In Pakistan, it is found in the northern mountainous areas.

There was no one where we stayed at Bara Pani campsite. A calm and peaceful place and only cold wind were blowing… Ultimately, a Stoat came quite close to us without any fear! Thus, we had the perfect opportunity to photograph it.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Oct 2015, Deosai Plateau, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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Snow Leopard observed in Morkhun Village -2

To begin with, when we were informed that the Snow Leopard hunted Ibex in the Morkhun village and sat on the other side of the river, we were near Gilgit. Thus, we changed the direction and headed towards Morkhun Village.

We had to drive slowly because it was dangerous and slippery on snowy roads, due to which, the chances of seeing the snow leopard decreased. It was a risky decision, as the snow leopard may not be there once we reach.
However, against all odds, we headed to the Morkhun village with a complex mind.

This is the Snow Leopard I saw when I just arrived. It was on the other side of the river and the distance was short. At first, I could not find it as it was camouflaged. But then I were able to see it, once it moved its tail.

It was already past 15 o’clock, and I was worried that the snow leopard would move before it became dark.

According to the villagers who have been observing it since morning, the Snow Leopard was hunting Ibex, eating it, hiding the rest of meat in the bush, entering the river, climbing up the rock, then it was sitting there for a while, and at last, went to sleep…till now. Villagers were showing us video clips of Snow Leopard they took through their mobile phone, while we were waiting for the movement of Snow Leopard.

The snow leopard has begun to move!
Villager screams in Wakhi saying, “Shou-bashi!”, meaning “Very good “/”Well Done”.
At this time, about 30 people from the village of Morkhun and the surrounding villages were witnessing the snow leopard.

Snow Leopard has jumped out. The villagers are delighted to say, “Shau-bashi! Shau-Bashi!”

Wild Snow Leopard is in front of us! I was really waiting for this perfect moment for a long time in Pakistan.

The villagers expected that Snow Leopard might go to the Ibex it hunted, but the Snow Leopard sat down again.

It was already dark, consequently limited chance to photograph the snow leopard. I followed the last figure of the snow leopard until I could not see it and left the place finally.

This is the place where we were observing in Morkhun village (drone shot)

Lastly, thanks a lot to the local people of Morkhun village.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jan 2019, Morkhun Village, Gojal, Gilgit-Baltistan
Special Thanks to Mr. Sultan Gohar (Khunjerab National Park)

Category : - Snow Leopard > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Gojar > - Morkhun > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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Snow Leopard observed in Morkhun Village -1

This is a Snow Leopard I observed at Morkhun village in the beginning of January. I saw a lot of footprints of Snow Leopard in Khunjerab National Park (KNP), yet I could not witness it live.

At last! Now Snow Leopard is in front of me.

At around 10:30 am, a villager found Ibex blazing down the slopes of the mountain. When looked carefully, it was chased by a snow leopard.
Finally, Snow Leopard hunted Ibex, but the place was just across the river of Morkhun village. It was a distance of about 30m across the river.

At 15:00, I arrived at Morkhun village after receiving a message from Mr. Gohar, KNP.
The Snow Leopard was concealed, sitting inside the tree branch. But it started to move in the evening.

Villagers state that as this Snow Leopard entered the river after hunting of Ibex, so the fur was not fluffy.
The sunlight shining on Morkhun village — encompassed by high peaks of The Karakoram range — was short and faded quickly.
Sadly, now the time was over…

Photo & Text : Mariko
Observation: Jan 2019, Morkhun, Gojal, Gilgit-Baltistan
Special Thanks: Mr. Sultan Gohar – KNP (Khunjerab National Park)

Category : - Snow Leopard > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Gojar > - Morkhun > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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Himalayan Brown Bear in Autumn – Deosai National Park

A Himalayan Brown Bear which makes the glorious Deosai plateau a well-known and famous place to traverse and explore for wildlife lovers around the world. In fact, the name itself literally translates to, “The land of the Giants”.

The Himalayan Brown Bear is a subspecies of the brown bear that lives in and around the magnificent Himalayas.
Originally, it inhabited widely in Nepal, Tibet, North India, and North Pakistan. However, due to trophy hunting and specifically for the purposes of fur and medicine, it lost its habitat and the population decreased drastically.
It is said that Himalayan brown bear in Bhutan has already been extinct. Moreover. Only a few hundreds population in Northern India and Northern Pakistan remain in the world.

In October, I went to Deosai Plateau for the observation of Himalayan Brown Bear with Deosai National Park staff. During my visit, a staff member explained to me that the bear may come closer to the roadside, as there are comparatively fewer cars and people during this season.
But still it was far and I had to walk quite a distance to approach the bear….

The sun has fallen.
No doubt, it was difficult to walk quickly, considering the fact that we were over 4,000 meters above sea level.

Finally, I came to the perfect distance where I could photograph the gigantic Himalayan Brown Bear.

View of a Himalayan Brown Bear from the backside!
According to the staff of the national park, he was a young male, and he was seamlessly fat enough before the hibernation period.

Himalayan Brown Bears go into hibernation between November and December.

Photo & Text  : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Oct 2015, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Himalayan Brown Bear > - Deosai National Park > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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Lolly the Snow Leopard -3

This is about Lolly the Snow Leopard, who has moved to the Naltar Valley.
Continuing from the previous day, I spent at Lolly’s facility from the morning. (The photo of Snow Leopard in this article is in captivity, not in wild)

Firstly, stop the jeep near the ski slope and walk from here. I asked the locals why Lolly was supposed to come to Naltar instead of Khunjerab National Park where she was born.
“I don’t know for sure, but it’s because Naltar has army facilities and army officials are watching it.”, he said. Certainly, at the fence of Lolly, there are army related people besides the tourists.

When I arrived at the fence, I saw Lolly was walking along the fence.
The staff said, “After eating meat, she walks like this.”

If you are observing for a long time, you will understand Lolly’s path, and if you wait there Lolly will come from the front.

Lolly from the back side. What a gorgeous looking snow leopard it is. That snow on the body, lovely.

I really feel Lolly is a charming female, and she needs a mate.

Look at the tail’s design! Look at the design of ears from the back!

Lolly was so active and showed various appearance today.
Finally, Lolly got meat at 16:00. The meat was frozen due to low temperature, but Lolly was chewing on the bones.
And after eating, she was cleaning herself.
I kept observing the lovely Lolly until dark.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Feb 2017, Captive condition at Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
Reference: The local staff of SLF at Naltar Valley

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Naltar Valley
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Lolly the Snow Leopard -2

The story about the Snow Leopard, “Lolly”. (The photo of snow leopard in this article is in captivity, not in wild)

The Snow Leopard Lolly moved from Khunjerab National park check post to Naltar Valley in the winter of 2016. It moved to a larger facility, but it was a different environment from Khunjerab National Park, where she was born.

We visited the Naltar valley in the month of February. The high peaks, villages were very beautifully shrouded in snow, truly a winter wonderland.
We continued to Naltar where heavy snowfall was expected.

Naltar is a heavy snowfall area and is also known for its ski area. It is close to Gilgit, but I had to go by 4WD.

Finally, I arrived at Naltar. I went to the place where Lolly inhabited.
The place was located about 10min walk from Ski slope on the mountain.
But I was unable to find Lorry. I asked the person who is taking care of Lolly, he replied, “Lolly is sleeping in the snow pit, so wait”.
At last! Lolly came out of the snow pit.

Lolly must be about 4 years old. A beautiful female Snow Leopard.

Lolly started to move. This facility is located on the mountain slope. So, sometimes it is difficult to follow Lolly on the snowy slope.

The fence of the facility. If you want to take a beautiful picture, then you need a telephoto lens such as 400mm. Also, to get a better chance of photography, you need patience and time to stay and wait, as Lolly may be sleeping in the day time.
More importantly, it is ideal to stay overnight at Naltar where a simple guest house is available. It will be another winter experience!

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Feb 2017, Captive condition at Naltar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
Reference: Local staff of SLF at Naltar Valley

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Naltar Valley
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Lolly the Snow Leopard -1

This article is about the Snow Leopard named “Lolly”, who was kept at the entrance of KVO check post, before the Khunjerab National Park entrance in 2015. (All photos of snow leopards in this article are taken while in captivity. Lolly is kept in the Naltar Valley as of May 2019.)

Snow Leopards follow and prey on wild animals such as Ibex in high mountains in northern Pakistan. In winter, descend down to the Karakoram Highway.

About 13 years ago, there was a Snow Leopard cub named “Leo” at the National Park office. Tourists who crossed the border to China used to see Leo and could take a photo with him. But it went to the zoo in the United States.

About seven years ago, villagers found a Snow Leopard cub drowned in the frozen river and saved it. A female Snow Leopard cub, who is estimated to be about six months old, was named “Lolly” and was kept in check post of KVO and Khunjerab National Park near Sost. When we visited, Lolly was in her third year in the cage.

Mr. Farman Razah who saved Lolly gets close to Lolly …. Lolly looks happy and makes sounds like cats “gorogoro” …

Lolly playing with national park staff. She gets to eat 3 kg of meat every day. Mainly of sheep, goats, and yaks.

How long will Lolly stay in this cage? Why it cannot be returned back to the wild?

At that time, the staff of this check post was telling us some ideal plan for Lolly that, when Leo comes back from the United States both Lolly and Leo will be shifted to Naltar Valley and will try for breeding.

Unfortunately, this is Pakistan, it does not go as planned. Lolly has been moved to the Naltar Valley, but Leo did not come back from US.

Finally, this is a photo of Leo when he was small. Photo with Mr. Sultan Gohar in Khunjerab National Park. (Photo courtesy of Khunjerab National Park)

It’s a pity that it’s not wild. Still, it’s something for a big cat’s lover !

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA

Photo of Leo & Sultan Gohar: Credits to Mr. Sultan Gohar – KNP (Khunjerab National Park)
Observation: **Captive condition in cage** Oct 2015, KVO Area
Reference: Mr.Sultan Gohar – KNP,  Mr. Farman Razah – KVO

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for observing wildlife of Pakistan.

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Category : - Snow Leopard (captivity) > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Khunjerab National Park
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Greater Flamingo – Soon valley

There are several lakes in Soon Valley located 150 km southeast of Islamabad, some of the famous lakes in this region serving as a habitat for birds are Kallar Kahar Lake, Khabeki Lake, and Uchhali Lake. Comparatively, Uchhali Lake is the best spot for migratory birds to spend winter season. It attracts migratory flamingos due to its salty blackish shallow water.

There were almost no ducks in late March when I visited, but there were more than 200 flamingos.
According to the locals, 20 to 40 birds have been observed so far, but such a large flock is the first time.
In 2016 no flamingos came to this lake, but since mid of 2018, more than 200 birds came and were still in Uchhali Lake.

Greater flamingos flying over the village.
It is said that a Greater Flamingo has an irregular migratory pattern and the local people were also wondering that it has been staying at Uchhali Lake for about 11 months already.

I’m worried that if their habitat is lost due development, there might be nowhere for these flamingos to go…

Greater flamingos are the largest flamingos in the flamingo family at 120cm to 140 cm.
“The largest flamingo” colors Pakistan’s sky. It was an unexpected scene!

Photo: MARIKO  Text: MARIKO & SAROSH
Observation: end of March 2019, Uchhali Lake, Soon Valley, Punjab
Reference: Birds of Pakistan, Birds of the Indian Subcontinents (Helm Field Guides)

Category : ◆ Punjab > - Salt Range / Soon Valley > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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Grey Francolin -Balochistan

A Grey Francolin, which lives in the courtyard of a local guesthouse in Kund Malir. For a moment I was bewildered, when I heard a loud voice, she was just so close to me. It seems that this courtyard is the territory of this Grey Francolin couple, so no matter whether a person or a car is passing by, they do not care at all.

Grey Francolin lives in the dry flat area of the Indian subcontinent. It is a wild bird deprived of the place to live due to the land development.

In Haryana State of India, I went to observe Grey Francolin early in the morning. Particularly, at that time I thought Grey Francolin is a very shy bird who would not approach towards any human. Nonetheless, I was slightly surprised at how Grey Francolin is walking around the courtyard freely.

・・・Grey Francolin, rubbing her body on the ground. It was a very lovely moment to gaze at.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : Feb 2019, Kund Malir, Balochistan

Reference : Birds of Pakistan, Birds of Indian Subcontinent(Helm Field Guide)

Category : - Wildlife of Balochistan > ◆ Balochistan > ◇ Birds of Pakistan
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Himalayan Ibex – Khunjerab National Park

In late December, when whole of the northern region of Pakistan was enveloped with snow, we went to Khunjerab National Park – located in the border between Pakistan and China.
Khunjerab National Park is home to many unique species of wildlife including the snow leopard, blue sheep, Himalayan Ibex and many more. Himalayan Ibex lives in the Khunjerab National Park throughout the year. However, winter is the perfect time to witness them when they solely descend for the purposes of mating and grazing.

Ibex in northern Pakistan is a subspecies called Himalayan Ibex or Siberian Ibex, <Capra sibirica>. It seems that they are further classified by the habitat among them.

According to the National Park staff, Ibex in this area is said to gather in low places from mid-December to late January. The male was deliberately chasing the female!

Cute, young Ibex at an altitude of 4,500m, close to Khunjerab Top.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : end of Dec 2018, Khunjerab National Park

Special Thanks : Mr. Sultan Gohar – Khunjerab National Park

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Ibex > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan > - Khunjerab National Park
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