Yazghil Glacier – Re:Discover Pakistan

09.11.2024 update

Shimshal Pamir & Summiting Minglik Sar (6,050m), Part 2

ミングリク・サール山頂付近から望むヒスパー・ムスターグ山脈 — Hispár Mústag mountain range seen from near the summit of Minglik Sár.

The following is a documentation of the second part of our Shimshal Pamir mountain journey in Aug-Sep 2024, tracing the route from the ascent of Minglik Sar (6,050m) to the return to Shimshal village.

Click here for Part 1.

Day 7: Summit of Minglik Sar (6,050m)

At midnight, the first and second parties left Minglik Sar B.C. The temperature outside was -7°C. We continued walking, using walkie-talkies to communicate with each other. We moved on, checking our footholds with headlamps. Step by step, we climbed up the steep gullies.

We arrived at the top of the ridge (about 5,320m). The first and second parties met, and the second party passed ahead. Soon after the sun came up and the landscape changed. After a rocky ridge, we arrived at a direct climbing spot on a snowy surface.

ガレ場の急登稜線を越えると、まもなく雪面へ — After crossing a steep ridge in a gully, we soon reached the snow surface.

Here we put on crampons and roped up in preparation for our push to the summit. The leading guide kick-stepped ahead and left tracks for those following behind. With the stunning mountain range in the background, we aimed for the summit step by step. K2 was now visible on our right!

After crossing a total of three crevasses, we finally reached the summit. The second team was there waiting for the first to arrive!

一歩一歩着実に頂上を目指す — Reaching the summit steadily, step by step.

果てしなく感じた頂上への登り　前方に先行したセカンド隊 — The seemingly endless climb to the summit. Second party ahead of us.

山頂付近より　ヒスパー・ムスターグ山脈の素晴らしい展望 — From near the summit-top, wonderfull view of the Hisper-Mustagh mountain

遂に、ミングリク･サール(6,050m)登頂！！！ — Summit of Mingrik Sar (6,050m)!

絶景を噛みしめます — Surrounded by spectacular scenery

As we continued, the hard, compacted snow had softened and made for an easier descent, but we couldn’t afford to let our guard down. We descended step by step. We could see B.C. below us, but it seemed far away.

After a nerve-wracking descent, complete with stumbling climbers and falling rocks, the last member returned to B.C. just as the sun was getting ready to set… It was a long haul, but everyone’s hard work paid off!

Day 8: B.C. (4,730m) to Arbob Paryen (3,900m)

The next morning, I woke up to the sound of yak calls. Continuing from the previous day, we started our descent under a clear blue sky. We retraced the same route as the upward journey.

ミングリク･サールB.C.の朝 — Morning at Minglik Sar B.C

アルバ・プリエン(3,900m)を目指す — Walking towards Arbob Paryen(3,900m)

On the way down to Shuw Jerab, we saw the west face of Shispare (7,611m) on our left.

シスパーレ(7,611m)西壁 — The west face of Shispare (7,611m)

We took a break at Chikor. The team also took some time to relax.

We safely passed through a zone of falling rocks and arrived at a campsite with reddish soil in the evening. We had entered an area below 4,000m in altitude, and the air suddenly felt thick and warm.

Day 9: Arbob Paryen (3,900m) to Past Furzin (3,550m)

Today’s agenda was to climb up from the campsite in the hollow valley terrain and head towards the core area. There were dangerous parts on the descent that were more difficult than the ascent, so there was always a sense of tension in the air.

パスト・フルズィン(3,550m)へ — To Past Fruzin(3,550m)

From Paryen Sar (3,850m) to Paryen Ben, and from there to the suspension bridge before Wuch Fruzin, we steadily descended with man-to-man support. As the lower part of the route came into view the route grew tougher both physically and mentally, but we all made it through safely.

緊張感のある下りが続く — The tension-filled descent continued

After that, we continued on the narrow cliff path to Past Furzin (3,550m).

パスト・フルズィン(3,550m)のキャンプ地 — The camp at Pat Furzin(3,550m)

Day 10: Past Furzin (3,550m) to Shimshal Village (3,100m)

After the summit day, the weather improved and we had a clear day for our final march. We patiently continued along the cliff path, and finally the view ahead of us began to open up. We arrived at our first day’s campsite, Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m). From here, we walked to the river at our own pace.

トレッキング最終日。シムシャール村(3,100m)へ！ — The last day of trekking. Heading for Shimshal Village (3,100m)

初日のキャンプ地ガーレ・サールに到着 — Arrival at Ghar-e-Sar, the camp site on the first day

And at last, we could see the village of Shimshal! After the cliff path, we went down to the riverbed. After having our final lunch at the hut, we walked along the flat path towards the village.

川のむこうはシムシャール村！ — The other side of the river is the village of Shimshal

Our Shimshal Pamir mountain trip seemed long but passed quickly. We arrived at the village, reluctant to leave the steep approach and the cold of the high-altitude camp. We were given hot water in a large bucket and were able to refresh both our body and mind.

コーラで乾杯の準備 — Get ready to toast with Coke!

The guides and porters who had looked after us visited us for dinner and we had a farewell party.

The ten-day trek seemed long, but it passed in an instant. It was not an easy mountain climb, but the view from the summit was exceptional, and the sense of achievement after all the hard work was great, making it a special experience that could never be had anywhere else, on any other route.

Photo & Text : Osamu KUSUNOKI

Visit : August 2024, Shimshal Pamir, Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan > - Shimshal
Tag : Shimshal , Ghar-e-sar , Shimshal Pamir , Peryen Sar , Shimshal Pamir Trekking , Past fruzin , Shimshal Village , Wuch fruzin , Yak , Shuw Jerab , Yazghil Glacier , Shuwerth , Karakorum Trekking , Kuch , Minglik Sar

25.10.2024 update

Shimshal Pamir & Summiting Minglik Sar (6,050m), Part 1

シュイズへラブで放牧されるヤクたち — Yaks grazing at Shuw Jerab

The following is a report on a journey to the 6,000m peak of Shimshal Pamir from late August to September 2024. Shimshal Pamir is known as “Karakoram’s no man’s land,” and is rarely visited by trekkers. I personally first visited in the summer of 2011, and since then I have returned to this place every year.

The area is a harsh wilderness where the Wakhi people graze their goats, sheep and yaks by moving from one pasture to another. In the past, they also made dairy products on the move, but this is no longer practiced. On the Shimshal Pamir expedition, you can get a glimpse into the summer pastoral life of the Wakhi people. In fact, just starting from Shimshal village and visiting this summer pasture is a strenuous trek, but the climb to the 6,000m peak that awaits beyond is a very satisfying route which provides a tremendous feeling of achievement.

>”Kuch”, a summer in Shimshal Pamir

Day 1: Shimshal Village (3,100m) to Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m)

The first day started in Shimshal village, as we headed towards the Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m). We crossed a small suspension bridge (Michael Bridge) and walked straight along the Shimshal River with the end moraine of the Yazghil glacier in sight. Although the path is flat, there are some difficult sections due to the large stones along the riverbank. The river water level was high at this time, and the yaks were given ropes from the other side of the river to pull them across.

ヤクに乗って移動することもできます。「ヤク・サファリ」と呼ばれています。 — Yak rides are also available. It is known as a ‘yak safari’

ヤズギール氷河のエンドモレーンを眼前に望みムシャール川沿いを直進 — Walk straight ahead along the Shimshal river with the end moraine of the Yazghil glacier in sight

We crossed the river at the bridge at the point where the Shimshal and its tributary, the Pamir Tang, meet, and had lunch at the hut beyond. After this began the steep climb up. It still being the first day, our legs and feet hadn’t quite gotten used to the climb yet.

Gradually, the angle from which we looked down at Yazghil glacier changed, and after a while we reached a campsite with a nice view. As the sun set, we could see the village of Shimshal in the evening.

Day 2: Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m) to Peryen Sar (3,850m)

谷を見下ろしながら歩く — Walking, overlooking the valley

From here, we walked on cliffs and the somewhat dangerous parts of the landslide zone. The tense climb made us feel even more fatigued. Eventually, after descending a steep valley, the campsite at Past Furzin (3,550m) came into view. Further along the cliff path, we reached Wuch Furzin (3,365m), where we took lunch.

After crossing the suspension bridge to the other side of the river, we made a perilous trek to Prien-e-Ben (3,596m). The route was nerve-wracking, but we made it safely to a point overlooking the valley.

吊り橋をわたり対岸へ — Cross the suspension bridge to the other side of the river

プリエン・ベンを見下ろす展望地から、右上のコル(パスト・ダルワザ)までジグザグに急斜面を登る先行ポーター組を眺める — View of porters ahead of us zigzagging up the steep slope

Finally, the treacherous ascent with an elevation difference of about 320m lay before us. To prevent slipping, we climbed step by step, one by one, accompanied by the locals.

標高差約320mの登り — An ascent with a 320m height difference from top to bottom

After a successful ascent, the path led to Past Darwaza (Lower Gate), which featured a gate made of stone. Continuing up the stone and wooden steps, using our hands, we reached the Wuch Darwaza (Upper Gate). We arrived at Prien-e-Sar (3,850m), where we stayed overnight. We had successfully crossed the crux of the approach. The peak of the Minglik Sar was now visible ahead.

パスト・ダルワザ(下の門) — Past Darwaza (Lower Gate)

プリエン・サールのキャンプ地　左奥にはミングリク・サール(6,050m)の頂上がみえる — Peryen Sar campsite. The peak of Minglik Sar (6,050m) can be seen at the far left

Day 3: Peryen Sar (3,850m) to Shuw Jerab (4,350m)

Today, we set our sights on Shuw-Jerab. In the morning, White Horn (6,400m, left) and Distaghil Sar (7,885m) were shining in the sunlight.

朝日に輝くディスタギル・サール(7,885m)とディスタギル・サール(7,885m 影がついている奥の峰) — Distant view of Distaghil Sar (7,885m/left)

Unlike yesterday’s route, today’s was far more wide and open. We continued to Arbab Prien (the campsite on the way back) and crossed the confluence of the Shuw-Jerab and Ganji-Dor rivers.

川の合流地点を目指す — Head to the confluence of the Shuw-Jerab and Ganji-Dor rivers

We had lunch at a place near a willow tree. Continuing along the Shuw Jerab river, we came across some yaks being herded as we approached the summer village. Shuw Jerab is a summer village and pasture where goats, sheep and yaks brought up from Shimshal village spend the summer grazing.

チコールでパスタランチ — Our mountain chef, Noor Khan, preparing a pasta lunch

Day 4: Stay at Shuw Jerab (4,350m)

Today was our day off. We experienced the summer life of the Wakhi people in the Pamirs, including milking yaks and visiting their summer residences. I noted that, compared to goats and sheep, yaks have a certain impressive aura about them.

家畜とともに生きるワヒ族の暮らしを見学 — The lives of the Wakhi people who live with livestock

After that, we hiked to Guruchinwashuk-Sam (4,600m) on the neighboring hill for altitude acclimatization. This was an ascent of 250m. It also served as a practice run for the exposed rock zones which we would be climbing on the day we head to the summit.

グルチンワシュク・サムの丘にて — Guruchinwashuk-Sam (4,600m)

Day 5: Shuw Jerab (4,350m) to Minglik Sar B.C. (4,730m)

It took about 3 to 4 hours to get to Minglik Sar B.C. On the way, we passed Minglik Sar on our left. Depending on the angle, it looks like a gently sloping mountain, and at its foot are two lakes, Zak Zoi and Lup Zoi. This time, we set up camp at B.C. along Zak Zoi.

ザック・ゾーイ沿いにB.C.を設置 — B.C. set up on the shore of Zak Zoi

The weather forecast said it would improve from the next day, so we decided to take another day to get used to the altitude. Meanwhile, we cooked the sheep we had bought in Shuwerth for 40,000 rupees and enjoyed it alongside some Japanese curry.

Day 6: Stay at Minglik Sar B.C. (4,730m)

In the evening it started to snow, and the base camp was transformed into a winter wonderland. It also became very cold—the temperature dropped below freezing. I thought we wouldn’t be able to make any progress, but the snow stopped, so we went on a high altitude acclimatization trek, which also gave us a chance to inspect the climbing route. The sun came out and we could see that the weather was gradually improving. The snow on the ground was also melting.